Another Blown Rear Rod Repair
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
A homeowner sent me a picture similar to this one. This is a classic blown rod. That is when the improper cold steel reinforcement rod has been imbedded in polyester instead of epoxy and the sink/faucet is leaking, rusting and expanding the rod and cracking the granite countertop.
I've tapped off the cabinet front to get to the blocking holding the sink in place; it wouldn't budge otherwise.
The installer screwed the blocking from the dishwasher and angled cabinet side instead of from the sink side. I pried the blocking off and pulled the cabinet side, screw heads and all.
I started at 10 and the rod is out by noon, however, the top has paid the price. You can't panic; this is way easier to fix than Corian.
I mixed up a base matching color, then pushed a little light gray in to fool the eye.
Not bad.
It's a miracle the front rod isn't gone; sometimes you get lucky.
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jhmarie
6 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago Related Discussions
Repairing or Replacing the back 3 upper panels
Comments (1)Hi Rjinga, Sorry for all the mishaps. We took 1x 4 cedar and screwed them into the walls for support. The only problem you will have to take out the panels and slip bolts down the channel and nut them on. It really isnt hard just sounds that way. It wont take that long also. Maybe a day to go all around. Is the neighbor gonna help you..... Did you screw all your panels in? Our weather up here is nuts also... I sure hope this helps you. Barb If you need pictures let me know........See MoreSnapper Rear Engine Rider
Comments (18)I bought a used Murray (Snapper twin) with a 10hp Tecumseh from a man in Monterey Cal. 30". Its had some use..... and the model numbers are missing, and it probably is at least 15 years old. But I am pragmatic enough to try and keep things running. Last week I bogged it down and sheared off the spindle pulley. I was ready to retire it. With the help of this forum---albeit with links to suppliers, I now have a new spindle (old one was toast), we are waiting upon the arrival of the new pulley, and yesterday I replaced the starter motor. That Tecumseh motor while is loud, it pulls like a ox. And the 30" blade always did a great job. Now with the new parts being installed along with a new blade (I could still use a new seat), I am anxious to get it back to service. SINCE as others have said, it wiggles in thru gates and areas not accessible to my riding lawn tractors that I also own. When I switched from a trimmer mower to a riding mower last year on my yard I never dreamed of the various problems that I encountered with the larger 42" lawn tractors. Like shearing off sprinkler heads, running it off the curb into the street while trying to negotiate the trees, and sneaking into the backyard via the gates. I'd buy another one in a minute. As long as this unit keeps on Snappin I will use it. (Even if my sons think it's gay looking compared to the John Deere riding mower....). I like it. I use mine. I think they are great. I am looking forward to having a new spindle on mine---and a new blade. While I might miss out on the great message the unit gave me it still will serve us well for a long time to come....See MoreWorst Rod Failure Yet
Comments (17)"Trebruchet, do you fabricate or strictly repair?" I recently gave a potential customer a price of $2,400.00 or so for a solid surface bathroom vanity with a coved backsplash recently. She's having granite put in for $1,000.00. I will hand out Frosty's at the Wendy's drive thru before I'll give my level of service, expertise, and quality at competitive granite pricing. I've found the secret to the repair business is cost effectiveness. I'm usually never competing against other repair persons, I'm competing against new/replacement work. There is an attractive window for customers somewhere between $0.00. and replacement. If I can hit the sweet spot by making it look 80% better and still be less than the down payment on new tops, I get the job. I've refused work before too; several times. Told the folks their house was too nice and the tops too far gone and to use the money they would have paid me to buy new tops....See MoreRear Rod Repair
Comments (12)ravencajun Zone 8b TX: Sink Straps and Hercules Universal Sink Harnesses can be installed without removing the sink from the cabinet, I've done it, but in your case I wouldn't recommend it, at least until i've seen the pics. Please post them. Push hard on the divider in your sink. Does the sink move? Even a bit? Is there water squeezing from between the sink flange and stone bottom? If not, keep an eye on it and do nothing. If so, you have to drop the sink, clean the flange and stone bottom, re-caulk, and strap the sink. Topical caulking is an inadequate and unacceptable solution. I can shut off the supply lines, remove a trap or two, disposal, sink, and faucet in about 20 minutes; it ain't all that. Drive a scraper between the sink and stone to loosen it. If you can't access the insert style fasteners, drive the scraper into them and they will fail. I very much prefer to scrape the sink flange with the sink outside the cabinet, abrade it mechanically, and clean it with acetone. Sinks will usually come out their cut-out. With the sink out or in but dropped, attach the Sink Strap(s) or HUSH to the cabinet sides. Run a bar clamp through a 2x4 spanning the cut-out and through the disposal hole, silicone the flange, snug the clamp, adjust your reveals, tighten the SS/HUSH (not too much, you'll raise the stone), pull the clamp, mist the squeeze-out with Windex, clean it off, and you're done. Oh, reinstall the faucet before the sink if you don't like working on your back, however, you may not have had to remove it if the base wasn't pinching the sink flange. Push hard on the divider again. Stand in it. Jump up and down if you like. The sink does not budge....See Morejhmarie
6 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago 
palimpsest
6 years ago
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