Fellow Basilophobics - Multiple symptoms of deficiencies (Pics)
Alloah everyone!
After an endless
battle with store bought fusarium and
downey, I started Basil from seed. The plants show weird signs as far as my
novice pot-gardener eye can judge. I've read a bit about these signs but I fail
to believe that that my plants have that many lacks of nutrition - or I
just fail to combine the signs?
Eventually, you could help me out?
Here two pictures of my plants, I've put them inside for the night as it will be rainy. Normally they are on our terrace where they get around 10 hours of sun per day.
(Picture 2, multiple plants per pot)
I have single plants per pot and multiple plants per pot. The single plants,
I've just recently separated a few weeks them from a few multiple plant pots
into fresh soil. All pots have a mix of 1 part rinsed and strained perlite, 0.5
part coconut choir and 5 parts
commercial garden soil. I can't find a pattern of different symptoms
between single and multiple plants per pot.
The old pots have
been fertilized in the past with a liquid NPK fertilizer
of 5-0-4 around every two weeks. Actually, I aim to find a 2-4-8
fertilizer with low ammonium and high
calcium content as that seems to be near the optimum for basil in terms of growth and essential oil development but I really
can't find that here in Belgium :-(. And budget..
I've not yet flushed any of my pots, I only
water by soaking in the sink. Could it be that salts built already up in the
ground and I just would need to flush them? But again, the new pots haven't
been fertilized yet and also have
symptoms. Or did the salts built up because of the recent strong growth
my plants have? Could the strong growth have caused an increased pH?
I've read that
multiple signs of deficiencies could point to a pH
that is too high. If it rises above 6.5 then important minerals like calcium, magnesium and iron are not available
to the plant anymore. Unfortunately, my pharmacy doesn’t sell pH test stripes,
so I just went ahead and did a vinegar and baking soda test. Mixed with the
vinegar, I was able to hear a slight sizzle but couldn’t see any bubbles coming
up. However, the same soil mixed with my irrigation water and baking soda, I was able to see bubbles forming quiet
strongly. How can I interpret this? It’s
a pH lower than 7 - but eventually above the 6.5 mark?
When I googled about the symptoms of my plants, such as 'basil yellow top leaves', a lot of information was pointing towards nutritional deficiencies. Especially helpful - or not helpful .. - I've found a great table on a hydroponics website and an infographic I came across.
So, In the following, a
few marked pictures with some of the symptoms. Also, I've included their meaning in italic according to the two links I've mentioned.
(Picture 3) New growth starts yellowing from the stem towards the leaf. Only slightly visible due to camera. Iron, magnesium. Further, lower leaves are also yellowing and geting pale (not visible on my pictures) --> N, K, Magnesium
(Picture 4) I absolutely have no idea what these white hairs on the middle veine are. Further, deformed leaf area & small bubbles on the leaves.
(Picture 5) Yellowing / whitening of the bottom leaves, from the outside to the inside. Leaf tip burn? --> Nitrogen, Zn
(Picture 6) Random yellow spots between veines on the top leaves -->Potassium. Further, a dark hole (?!?)
(Picture 7) Underside of the dark hole leaf.
(Picture 9) Upwards curling of younger leaf --> Magnesium. Downwards curling of older leaf --> Nitrogen
(Picture 10) I cant stand looking at it anymore. There are some better pictures i could have taken but young leaves wrinkle and curl. --> K, Zn, B, Mo, Mn, Calcium
So, well, did I forget any possible element that my plant is apparently missing? I don't know what to do and I was looking so much forward to a pesto. Should I take all of em right away and don't wait before whatever is going on will kill them? These are my first Basil plants from seed.
Thanks for reading and.. well.. let's discuss!
Comments (6)
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Bad leaves, what's wrong, pic
Comments (21)The patterns of green and yellow are different and distinct between iron, magnesium, and manganese deficiencies--that is, the deficient leaves can be diagnosed pretty reliably by appearance regardless of where they are on the plant. Magnesium deficiency starts on the lowest leaf on a cane and moves gradually upward. However, there is a strip of green on either side of the green vein that is distinctive. Manganese deficiency has green lateral veins in addition to the main vein. Iron deficiency has green main veins only and affects the newest growth most dramatically. But in cases of longstanding deficiency of any of the three, the whole plant can show symptoms....See Morecitrus leaves (multiple trees)
Comments (10)Tree looks underfed to me and is presenting a Magnesium deficiency. In the beginning, it was hard for me to feed my trees as much as they needed to be fed ��" I just couldnâÂÂt wrap my head around how much fertilizer that I needed to put down. My recommendation is to âÂÂspoon feedâ young trees. For oneâÂÂs the size & age of the one in the photo, I would apply 1.25lb of 6-6-6 or 8-8-8 once a month through-out the growing season ��" do not use slow release. First feeding should occur after the risk of frost, last feeding would be 3 months before the risk of frost. Feed with a granular micro-nutrient mix once a quarter if your fertilizer does not contain them, SouthernAg makes a good one ��" 1/4 cup per tree per quarter. Spread the fertilizer in a 12inch band around and just outside of the treeâÂÂs drip line. You might also consider hitting this tree with a foliar spray of 1.25Oz Calcium Nitrate + 1.25Oz Epsom Salt to get it going until it has time to pick up the granular. The use of a wetting agent will greatly increase the effectiveness of the foliar sprays. CoCo Wet is a good one to start with. You can get Epsom Salts, Calcium Nitrate, and a Product by the name of M.OS.T from J.R. Peters. M.O.S.T is a good all-round micro nutrient spray. Another product by the name of KeyplexHG is also a good foliar fertilizer. The trees should get most of their nutrients from their roots and the sprays should be supplemental. Spray in the early morning and make sure to get the undersides of the leaves. SouthernAg Essential Minor Elements: http://www.sunshinegardensfl.com/servlet/the-162/Essential-Minor-Elements-Dry/Detail J.R. Peters Specialty Nutrient source: http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Specialty-Nutrients/Buy-Specialty-Nutrients.html KeyplexHG source: http://www.keyplexdirect.com/our-products/207.html CoCoWet source: http://www.spray-n-growgardening.com/Coco-Wet-8-oz/productinfo/CCW/ Best, Skinn30a...See MoreZucchini leaves are yellowing from the bottom up (w/pic)
Comments (7)redmoss, I take it that the roots of the zucchini are in a comparatively small area and the vine is spreading out. And that you are checking for moisture etc. in the root area. A certain amount of leaf loss like you describe can be quite normal, especially as the plant flowers and sets fruit. I would be concerned about the young leaves. I would look back to two or three weeks ago and see if any cultural or environmental condition occured to account for the change in the plant. Try the garden center or extension service but this time take one healthy young leaf, one young leaf with early symptoms and two or three others that will show the progression of the symptoms. If you do decide to remove the plant, do it carefully and perform a post mortem or 'CSI Plants'. Examine the roots, the stem at ground level and split the stem lengthwise to see if anything has been ambushing your efforts....See MoreLiquid Iron
Comments (22)The problem with bone meal is it has calcium, and calcium INTERFERES with the absorption of iron. Same with lime and dolomitic lime, both have a high percentage of calcium. I sprinkled lime on a few-roses before, upper leaves became pale immediately, showing iron chlorosis. My kid had anemia (low-iron), and we gave her iron-pills. The instruction on the iron pills said NOT to be taken with calcium-rich foods. She has to take iron pills on empty stomach, and can't consume any dairy products until 2 hours later. Red-lava rock is high in iron, but it's slow-released, best in the planting hole .. when it's wet, it releases iron better. Topping with cocoa mulch, high in iron, produced amazing growth spurt on my roses with higher iron needs. The red-ones like William Shakespeare and Mirandy benefit most from iron-rich mulch like cocoa mulch. I get AWFUL result with iron sulfate, which burnt the roots of the plants that I tested. Iron is best in chelated form, or in organic-soluble, such as cocoa-mulch, or dissolved-red-lava-rock. I re-post the nutrients of cocoa-mulch below, note iron at 140, that's very high for a trace element. Cocoa mulch has 2.5 nitrogen, 1 of phosphorus, and 3 of potassium, and contains many micronutrients: ANALYSIS OF COCOA MULCH at pH 5.4 Total N % 3.0 Total C % 43.0 Below are mg per 100g: Phosphorus 1000 Potassium 3251 Calcium 575 Magnesium 488 Iron 140 Manganese 9 Zinc 11 Copper 3.5 Nickel 1.0 **** From StrawChicago, some pictures of my roses' growth spurt, when topped with cocoa mulch for iron, potassium, and nitrogen. Dark red roses like Mirandy, Oklahoma, W.S. 2000, and Lasting Love have a higher need for iron. The best growth spurt is William Shakespeare 2000 (dark red), see below for less than a week growth-spurt, that one is slow, unless given soluble iron via horse manure or cocoa mulch. It's 100% clean in weeks-long rain:...See MoreMateo Sumato
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years agoMateo Sumato
6 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years ago
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7