Some of the pictures look like chickweed, but the all look like winter plants, ie. plants that germinate and grow best in cool weather. Most likely you need do nothing since as the growing season progresses they will die and be replaced with your grass.

The one on the right looks like lambsquarters. Google "lambsquarters" with Image Search, and you can compare yours with what you find. The good news is that if it is lambsquarters, it's delicious! It tastes like spinach, only milder/less astringent. I like mine in an omelette with cheese. Hey, if you're pulling it up anyway, why waste it? (NB: You'll want to make absolutely sure it IS lambsquarters before you eat any, of course! And I'm an organic gardener; if you're not, you may want to avoid eating your weeds.) Here is a link that might be useful: One source of photos/info re: lambsquarters

Not to be too nit-picky, but the issue with Norway maple is not that it is a "trash tree" or any other negative attribute. They are handsome, vigorous trees. The issue is their invasiveness here in N. America. And it's a real issue, this tree truly being capable of outcompeting not just individual native trees, but whole plant communities. Just saying.....there's a reason several million of these things got planted all over the US and Canada. But time has shown that the invasive potential is just too great with this one. And yes, I am well aware of the other "issues" with the tree-its very heavy shade, tendency towards shallow roots, its tendency to develop girdling roots in transplanted individuals. But none of those factors absolutely preclude our using this tree. The invasiveness however, does.

Black Medic, a member of the clover (legume) family that grows best in compacted soils with low levels of organic matter. Short term controls are spraying with plant poisons while long term control is achieved by correcting the soil conditions that it likes to grow in. Start with a soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels and then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what else needs be done. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.