Some trees will grow next to walnuts - see link below. I planted a few acres of walnut seedlings in one area of my reforestation project and used the list to determine which trees I could mix with the walnuts. I planted a lot of oaks, redbuds, and red cedars mixed in with the walnuts to add some variety, but several others will do fine next to them as well. Another option would be to remove the walnut tres and replant the spruces. I've read the juglone lasts 2-5 yrs in the roots/soil after the tree is killed so the new trees may get off to a slow start until the juglone totally fades away. john Here is a link that might be useful: Walnut Trees

These don't appreciate shade and would be liable to appear even more gloomy and scruffy stuck beneath another tree than they do anyway. Then there is the matter of the visual tension produced by having a conical conifer stabbing up through a deciduous tree (unless the shade is heavy enough to prevent it from growing up through the branches of the walnut much). If you don't require tall plants use broadleaved evergreen shrubs with rounded or spreading growth habits instead of coniferous evergreens. If you require tall plants that will be likely to grow well above the bottom level of walnut branches it would be greatly preferable to have these located behind or beyond the spread of the tree branches.

Pretty much any time between whenever everything goes dormant to spring bud-break - but be aware that many black walnuts are defoliated by anthracnose as early as late August/early September - but they're not really dormant yet. I usually start transplanting pecans/walnuts/oaks in late Feb/early March, but will be moving some around Thanksgiving this year - and on through the winter, whenever the ground's not frozen or pure mud. Just want to see if perhaps they can get a little better established with fall transplanting, since I'm not going to be hauling water a half-mile or more out to them to keep them going next summer. I wouldn't even necessarily try to get them out with a 'rootball'. Bare-root 'em, but try to preserve as much root mass as is possible. Don't buy into the 'sacred/magical taproot' argument some folks put forward - it won't kill your tree if you sever the taproot, but it is an 'energy storage receptacle', so the more taproot you preserve, the more stored energy your transplant has for root regeneration and topgrowth next spring. I hand-dig all my trees, and usually shoot for preserving 16-20" of taproot on pecans/oaks/walnuts, and can usually accomplish that with my King of Spades tree-digging shovel. But, if I only end up with 8-12", it's not the end of the world; most survive.

To clarify; the info I found on blk walnut trees and peonies was inconclusive because 'peony' was listed on some sites as being juglone tolerant, while on other sites was listed as juglone sensitive. No sites that I ran accross gave specifics as to type or names varieties, so I am left uninformed as to which varieties were demonstrated with, and whether any included tree peony types, or focused on herbaceous peony species. -anyone to help? specific named varieties? I've trimmed off some of the BW limbs to increase the light, as the rhodies are displaying some spindly growth. ccckoball