If the trees were in pots, the mixture they would have been planted in would be one to allow good drainage - in the nursery, pots are watered daily with an automatic system, usually, even twice daily on the hottest days, and good drainage in the pot is a must. Since the trees MAY have had enough or even too much water in the first few days/weeks, it may also be that the leaves were dried out too much before they were planted, in transport, especially if that entailed travel on highways - wind and sun are very drying. When planted, the root ball usually needs to be watered daily, or every other day, for the first few days, until the roots have a chance to grow out of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. After that, the frequency of watering can slowly be cut back, as the dryness of the soil/root ball dictates, until watering takes place weekly. Do NOT water on a schedule but according to the dictates of your soil. Right now, soak the root ball, in a LONG, SLOW watering - you want the water to get to the very bottom of the root ball. Test by sticking a finger up to the second knuckle into the soil (into the root ball for now, and for the next month), and water again when it is dry at that distance down, about 2 inches. If the root ball is very dry, then water, even if the surrounding soil is moist. If it is very sunny, hot or windy, you may need to water daily, if it is cool or shady, then less frequently; if you have clay, it may be once a week, if in sand, every other day - I don't know your soil nor your weather. If the leaves wilt in the heat of the day, don't worry as long as they perk back up in the evening or by morning - it's a normal physiological reaction to heat. If they stay wilted, WATER! I would suggest that you speak again to the nursery, and speak to the manager or owner, as the advice given you was less than helpful. If they aren't accomodating, I suggest you avoid that nursery in the future, at least for advice and planting services! Ask for a guarantee, since they advised you on the care of your tree. It MAY pull through, going into early dormancy, and it may not, having become too dry in the hottest part of the summer. If you try a scratch test on a twig/branch - lightly scratch through the outer bark and see if the cambium layer is still green - and it is green, then with care, the tree should be OK come spring. Even if it loses all its leaves, keep watering as indicated - the roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. Another possibility is that the trees were planted too deeply - take a look and if the trunk goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole, then it may be planted too deeply. Dig around at the base of the trunk until you come to the root flare, which should be at or slightly above ground level. If it is only an inch or so down, you can gently scrape the soil back, as widely as possible, and keep it clear. If it is more than that, then it is too deep, and I would ask that they come back, re-dig them and reset them a few inches high, since the soil put into the bottom of the hole will settle. There should be no or a nominal charge for this, since it is their mistake, but..... If you, or the installers, did not mulch, I would do so - it keeps the roots cooler, more moist, limits weed/grass competition and keeps weed-eaters and lawn mowers away from the trunk. Mulch as widely as possible, at least 3', no deeper than 4", and put NO mulch in the inch or so next to the trunk. Of course, if the trees were planted deeply, then wait to mulch until after that has been rectified.

Hi Pat, very pretty pics! I have three Julia Child roses. If you can take a closeup pic of a bloom with some leaves I can probably tell you if that's what you have. BTW, a miniature rose has more to do with the size of the bloom, not the size of the overall bush. I have four minis - Lemon Drop (2), Gingerbread Man, and Sunrise. I'll take some new pics soon but here's link where you can see them. Click on the Cottage Gardens link at the top of the page. Diana Here is a link that might be useful: sycamore cottage

I have them mostly in the front of the house in a 2-3' strip between the house and the driveway. I do like jkom, pulling them once or twice to keep them from overpowering existing plantings and thin them out a bit. I actually think they're kind of pretty and it makes me happy when they bloom cause they are a sure sign of spring. They do disappear as soon as the weather gets warm, so I don't find them too awful, esp. since they are contained in that area. wanda

Ah okay. I'll likely keep it, and use it as a screen to protect my desirable plants from the intense reflections of my windows. Window reflections often have a cross-shaped pattern of intense focus caused by slight bending of the windows, and since the energy-efficient ones do a great job of reflecting infrared they have roasted my deck plants in the past.