Depends if its 50% off $50 or $100!

Whenever I see a tree with contorted branching when it typically shouldn't I always think root issues.

I got it for $17.50 but now I feel kind of dumb...There is one root that is right up by the root flare and I keep trying to put dirt and mulch on top of it.

I was at a garden center and an employee was throwing a sad looking crabapple away..I said "can I have it"..he said "I don't see why not"..gave it to me..branch structure was similar to yours..it lived several years but never grew into a better shape..finally got sick of looking at it and took it out..I've decided to purchase trees ONLY if the trunk is straight with pretty branch structure..I think it's worth it to pay more when it comes to trees..

I should have known better. Rookie mistake. What if I cut that main branch to see if it will grow back straighter?

I would cut off that one low branch, and keep the bottom part of the scaffolding branches clear of any growth. Going forward, only removed crossing/rubbing branches, dead branches, and diseased branches. Honestly, it's a short-lived tree. Give it 15 years to get attacked by fireblight and every other pest under the sun, then you can remove and replace it.

I had the same situation and decided NOT to cut anything..when I imagined the end result it was still funny looking..when you love plants and bargains you can end up with less than perfect plants..sometimes they grow into something beautiful but sometimes they don't..as time goes on I'm better at saying No to bargains..I would rather have nothing than a plant that's an eyesore..your tree is prettier than mine was..

A small deciduous tree can recover from a lot with time and the right pruning. If worse comes to worse, you can always turn a crab apple into a shrub.

I wouldn't worry about a stray root that's too high...unless it is an indication the tree was planted too deep. The tree can handle a single root exposed to air better then it can handle a trunk surrounded by dirt.

As far as the "whether a bargain is a bargain" issue...the real question is how much land do you have vs. how much money. If you have very little space, you want to be very careful to use it wisely. If you have lots of land, a grove of less then perfect trees in the back 40 is fine.

"The tree can handle a single root exposed to air better then it can handle a trunk surrounded by dirt."

I am not the OP, but I hope so too, as I have a newly planted small tree like that.

I definitely have space but this tree should probably be a better specimen for where it is planted. I think since it is getting late to be planting I may just wait until fall and move this guy somewhere else and put a better specimen in it's place. Any other pruning ideas from anyone? I am really looking forward to the spring flowers and the red fruits! I may buy the same tree again!

And I'll add that you can cut that branch way down to any outward growing bud. Apples, crabapples, and other fruit trees are pruned severely upon planting in order to develop the proper, open scaffolding desired for fruit bearing trees.

Most homeowners don't have the courage for early fruit tree training, but the rewards are tremendous.

Sounds like that I should've tried pruning mine..

The good news as garden gal eluded to is that Sugar Tyme is one of the best Crabapples for WI so I would assume similar performance in zone 5 NE.

I have several trees with air roots by the way. I prune them out in 2 to 3 years.
No problem

if you were thinking in tree time.. you wouldnt be concerned about anything.. other than doing the happy dance for the money you saved ...

but.. i dont like the white staking bands... they are too low.. and if a strong wind comes thru ... the tree MIGHT snap a few feet above.. due to you restricting it down low ...

is there a stake flush with the trunk???

get some water in the general area ... not just the planting hole ... put a sprinkler on low for a few hours .... and wet a 6 foot circle or so ... lets encourage the roots out of the hole ...

otherwise.. give it 2 or 3 years ... AND THEN START THINKING ABOUT PRUNING ... crikey dude ... it needs every leaf it has.. to grow the roots ... its really not time to be thinking about cutting them off ...

water properly.. and otherwise ignore it ... and no.. its not hungry.. no fert ...

happy dance.. happy dance.. happy dance ... and water ...

ken

There is a stake flush with the trunk but it is in kinda crooked and I didn't want to pull it out again and jab it through the roots again. It is a long story...I had it planted really nicely in nice soil, watered well, and staked about a foot and a half to the left. Then I realized I wanted it to be more in the center of the end of this berm. It was threatening rain so I dug it up, used a pliers to awkwardly pull up the stake out of the ground and moved it to the right spot. The stake is in a bit crooked and the whole thing was moving in the wind. It felt like garden bloopers or something lol.

So I will do the water thing, and leave the leaves and branches for now. And move the white stakes up higher?

Remove the stake by the trunk and, yes, move the white ties higher. I'd use three stakes the size of the one at the trunk...and find green ties or old nylons or anything less stark than the white ties.

tj

It looked like yours six years ago when we moved in.

The only problem is as you can see Japanese Beatles. Every summer they hit the tree, but appear to be doing no long term damage.

white ties

That tree looks really nice krnuttle. I know the ties look bad, they were a temporary solution! So is a stake next to the trunk not a good idea? The nursery where I got several other trees put a bamboo stake next to the trunk of every one?

Stake next to the trunk is never a good idea. Also, I didn't notice before, pull the mulch away from the trunk.

Stake by the trunk at a nursery is for shipping/handling protection, rarely for planting.

tj

Here is the oak I just planted last week.