Has anyone restored a 1920 two piece door?
J G
6 years ago
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kats737
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Has anyone restored old beadboard walls? HELP
Comments (13)Well, you can feast your eyes on my attic; I'm thinking you might be facing something similar. I stared at these boards, which were/are painted dirty white, for nearly 20 years before I figured out what to do. Or rather, how to decide what to do. I have two rooms upstairs. One is done in narrow boards with tons of end-to-end joints hanging in the middle of nowhere, and it's bumpy and uneven and ugly as sin. There was nothing for it but to cover it up, which I've done with panelling on one wall, and in another part of the room with wallpaper. I've also started panelling the ceiling with 1/8" maple plywood but don't have a photo of that yet. My husband is not a fan of the wallpapered part, but it works for me. I plastered (oh yes I did) all the cracks, smoothed the wall as much as I could, and papered over it. Half the room so far. For the rest, I've discovered an underpaper that may spare me the plastering. First two photos here of the original look and the panelling. Pardon the mess; after 20 years there are no empty rooms, and the house is so messy I have trouble getting presentable photos! The other room, shown in the third photo, had wider boards, not so many joints, and was installed better, flatter. That, I decided I could paint. It is shown here partly done (and with only one coat on one wall); again, pardon the stuff. Yes, this is how I work my way around the room. I am nearly done the room now, and really liking it painted, much better than I expected. I REALLY hated it when it was white with the dark floor. Am also doing a hallway, in a creamsicle orange colour, and that is looking pretty good too. So one question is, is the installation of your boards nice enough to paint? I have to admit I don't recommend the papering (sounds like that's been tried!). I used a satin finish paint; the old paint was flat, and yuck. If the boards are just bad, then consider removal or covering with panelling. Or with gyproc. An unexpected pain in these rooms is the corners. How do the walls meet? Mine have huge uneven gaps and need corner moulding. It used to have a quarter round, which I hated and have replaced with a square 1x1. I also had holes that were cut in - to get into to the attic shoulder walls - and have had to devise covers for these. Another question you might want to consider is fire safety. It should be noted that gyproc will give you a bit more time than wood, I think. Ours is a small simple house and egress is comparatively straightforward. If yours is more complicated, and if grandkids are involved, you might want a better fire-rated wall material, and that would argue for removal and gyproc. I am not a fan of multiple layers on walls - had trouble even doing the 1/8 inch ply. Maybe we just have so little space I hate to lose even an inch, plus there is spacing out the moulding, and it's messy to get through. So if you are going to do drywall, I would tend toward removal of the beadboard. You could preserve it and use it instead as wainscot, perhaps. Or as fencing. Or as moulding. Or give it away. But wow, unpainted old beadboard? I bet it's nice wood if you refinish it, but I'm not sure I'd feel obligated to keep it on the walls as it is, holes and all. Wood can actually be used around a tub; it's more resilient with water than you'd think. Karin L...See More1920's cottage--1920's kitchen with Hoosier?
Comments (29)Well, it's too bad she's not ready to move on things yet. Even without fori's amazing range. BTW, did you know those sell for 6 to 8K at the specialty shops on this coast, fori? You could have a second career. In just one day I was able to dig up these--wouldn't they make a darling kitchen? You'd have to have a larger companion or two made to the side piece, but how Florida these colors are. Range (considering electric as well as gas, since gas availability varies in those neighborhoods--not worth it if she has to foot the bill to run service, and unfortunately a lot of the area is the kind of neighborhood where people would steal propane). I just lost my heart to the color scheme here, although we could have something else redone in the same buttercream+sea green, I suppose: Hoosier with side (original paint). Small, but with a repro side or two, could work: Reproduction cast iron sink. There are lots of old ones, but there was a problem with getting iron reporcelained recently, so this would be the fallback if we can't find a real one in good condition or a steel one that can be redone. Would love an old one in buttercream yellow, though. Not bad for less than a day's worth of looking around, and the total cost of everything including modern fridge and re-enameling a vintage table to match would be under 5K, even with repairs and shipping....See MoreHas anyone used Barker Cabinet Doors?
Comments (27)I've got to speak up for Scherr's Custom RTA Cabinets. They are a custom cabinet maker that does RTA cabinets. You get exactly what you want. They assemble as much or as little as you require. I had them assemble my drawer boxes and I did everything else. They have more than three finishes. I had a great experience with them. I will use them again. Scherr's cabinets are made in North Dakota. Leon Scherr has been in business for at least 25 years. They were cost competitive and had really good customer service. You could actually talk to someone. They helped you answer questions and solve problems. That is why I selected them over Barker's. Scherr's does have a rather clunky, old fashioned website. You fill out a form with your requirements and send them a rendering of your plan including measurements. They put it into a CAD and cost it out for you. I think one of the reasons more folks at GW tend to use Barker's is because of Barker's online ordering system. While it's sort of efficient, many people just don't want to talk to anyone and would rather work up an order to see the price. You actually have to talk to someone about your order at Scherr's. I guess people are shy about it. It's a great product and nice group of people....See MoreWould you buy a restored 1920's home that's only 1.5 bathrooms?
Comments (18)We lived in a fantastic 1931 single bath plus powder room house from the time we married until both kids graduated from university. It was very well built with quality materials and had a double lot in an upscale neighborhood. The couple who bought it from us have 3 kids and it was a move up for them from a 2 bedroom, 1 bath house. When we went to sell, the house was such a beautiful house that only having one bath wasn't a major issue. It did help that the bathroom was very large with separate tub and shower and a door to the master bedroom. In an area with higher house values, adding a bathroom might have been a reasonable upgrade but our house values were moderate. Adding a bathroom would probably only add a max of 20% of cost to the market value and we were used to the single bathroom so it wasn't an issue for us....See MoreJ G
6 years agokats737
6 years agoGargamel
6 years agomillworkman
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agokats737
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6 years agoLinda
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDebbie Downer
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