Better, but I'm not a fan of anything MG; if you read the label carefully, you might see it falls short in CA, MG. Many here like Foliage Pro; but I am not a container grower. My mature producing Meyers in the field get 3 pounds per year of 18-6-12 with 2% each MG and CA, plus 1% each Iron and zinc... it is specially made for me; so unless you need 10,000 pounds or more per year, you proly have to look for something close to that. FYI, I have found it nearly impossible to over feed a Meyer; but mine are all inground. Do a search here for Patty (hoosierquilt) or Mike (Meyer_mike) and you will get better advice for containers.

let it dry out for a few days, (unless its already dry) then water it and see if it perks back up. the trees roots will close and not suck up water if the soil has too much water in it which gives the look that its not being watered enough, this usually tricks people to water more when what the tree actually needs is a little draught period ( but not to long) hope that helps chris

I'd say Silica is correct about the ratio of light to soil temperature. This is only meant to simplify the balance of the relationship between leaves and roots. Leaves use light to start the process of making food. The leaves will tell the roots that it needs all the ingredients of the photosynthesis "recipe" to finish making food. So in normal ideal outdoor conditions, the roots provide and send up water+nutrients needed to complete the food being made in the leaves. Imagine that to citrus roots 55F and lower is considered to be like frostbite to the roots. The roots cannot do anything when the soil is cooler than 55F. It cannot absorb water, it cannot function at all and so it basically sleeps to conserve its energy. However if the leaves are having a blast above the soil and getting a sunny Hawaii vacation thanks to strong indoor lighting, it will try to make food. The leaves cannot stop itself from reacting to light. When light hits the leaves and warms the leaves enough for it to function, the leaves will react to light no matter what and must start photosynthesis. But if the roots are too cold, it cannot send up the missing ingredients because it will be in hibernation. Eventually the leaves will lose moisture since it is in active mode. While the leaves are active and losing moisture, the roots are inactive and cannot send water up to hydrate the active leaves. Like running a marathon without any sustenance. The tree will sacrifice it's own leaves if it cannot provide itself the water or nutrients that is needed to continue with the process. Sorry if my post was long. I feel that it can be simple to understand if I try to compare it to thing we already understand. So to answer your question Mike, when the tree is getting plenty of sunlight that means leaf activity goes up and therefore root activity must also go up in order to keep the balance in their relationship. In order to make the root function as much as the leaves, temperatures of the soil surrounding the roots must increase. If root temperatures (and therefore root activity) cannot be increased because heating is too expensive, then the activity levels of both root and leaves must be in balance. Either the root or leaves will have to follow the other. If root activity cannot go up to parallel the leaves then inevitably is it up to the leaves to follow the roots footsteps and also be very inactive. That means reducing light levels to reduce leaf activity for the sake of matching the cold/inactive roots. I think of the leaves and roots as two parts of one living creature. It cannot live without one or their other. Both parts must follow each other because they are two halves of a whole. One is the pie crust and the other the pie filling. You cannot have a pie with a very thick crust but 2 teaspoons of filling and vice versa! It just wouldn't make any sense. You would have a very disfigured and unappetizing pie! They must both contribute the same amount to create a balanced and delicious food! I can get creative when I need to when it comes to explaining things so if this still wasn't easy to understand at all, feel free to let me know. I hope this helped anyone confused about the whole roots and leaves matter

Amanda, it looks to me like that tree is a gonner. You’ve put too much stress on an already stressed, under watered, under fed tree. I’m afraid it will see its demise indoors. If it were me, I would take the winter and do some research on root stocks and how they effect the growth habits of the citrus tree you want to grow. Then I’d go to my local nursery like Armstrong’s or wherever you normally go in LA and find a new tree that is grafted to said rootstock that you researched in January and plant said tree in Late January early February into the ground. Late winter early spring is the perfect time of year to plant citrus trees In ground. Then I’d water it consistently and deeply the first year and fertilize it lightly monthly. That’s it. The more care and worry you give to your trees the worse off they end up being from over care. You see, in ground trees are very different than potted trees. They need a lot LESS care, you have to let them do what they’re going to do and address issues only if they arise. Not every tree is going to look perfect or have deep green leaves or bear fruit the first 1-2 years, it takes patience. Rest assured though, you live in LA, it’s basically the perfect climate to grow citrus in so if you have patience and keep an eye on your tree it will reward you with a bounty eventually. Evan