Your Cherry Tree's may have VERTICILLIUM WILT Symptoms Leaves at the bottom of current season growth turn chrome yellow or reddish orange in mid-June to mid-July (Fig. 17). Leaf discoloration progresses up the shoot during midsummer. Leaf drop follows (Fig. 18). By fall, only upper leaves remain. Disease may affect only a branch or one side of a tree (Figs. 17, 18). Young trees usually are more severely affected. A brownish red discoloration occurs in woody vascular tissue of some affected branches. Cause The disease is caused by the fungus Verticillium dahliae, and spread through soil, surface and ground water, nursery stock, and infested potato feed lot manure. The fungus survives in the soil for many years, and may increase in soils infested with certain weed species. Control Avoid planting in soil where susceptible crops (potato, tomato, pepper, raspberry, strawberry, peach, apricot) have been grown. Control weeds in orchards (e.g., phlox, geranium, shepherds purse, lambs quarters, nightshade). Avoid excessive irrigation, high nitrogen fertilization, severe pruning, or other practices that promote succulent growth. Prune out dead branches; plant only healthy trees. I have found that the new farm I have purchased the last three months that the fruit trees are diseased, the farm includes Apple, Peach, Cherry trees, also the farm produce's Potatoes, Tomatoes, Sweet Corn. I have found that this PDF http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1323e/eb1323e.pdf has helped me. I hope this gives you some helpful information too! Here is a link that might be useful: Field Guide to Sweet Cherry Diseases in Washington

I love Phlox and usually they grow well, but it seems they can be susceptible to mildew and fungus. Two years ago, I had an unidentified wilt in most of my Phlox paniculata, P. carolina, and P. maculata in the Spring, including David, Tracey's Treasure, Harlequin, and Miss Lingard. It was rampaging through the phlox and even killed off a couple plants before I finally "sprung to action" and sprayed with a copper fungicide. LOL I used an organic spray called "Soap shield" from Gardens Alive. That seemed to halt the rampage. Yours would probably benefit from a spray. The good news is that the Phloxes look great this year, although it took a couple years for some to recover back to full size.

the whole flower bed has only been there for maybe 3.5 weeks. ==>>> large transplant.. fertd at planting ... transplant shock ... and a rather minor type .. but for one stalk.. that may have been damaged in shipping and or planting .... one ugly stalk in the whole bunch .. the rest looks fine ... cut it down.. out of sight.. out of mind ... you might have been a bit late in planting large stock .. here in MI .. we are in week 4 of drought.. week two of supreme heat ... if i had that same plant.. it would be near total collapse... perhaps you ought to be focusing on your successes.. rather than this ... alos.. imo.. try to avoid use of fert when transplanting .. that itself is enough stress.. somehow burning off the roots would not be a plus .... and food doesnt offset stress .. no matter what grandma told you ... please add your location on your members page.. ken

Very pretty, peren.all. We have only one 'Orange Perfection'. Late blooming; had it for years but not very vigorous for us (it's location?). Suspecting that your pale pink are seedlings that have replaced the original plant. Have pictures of a 'White Admiral' garden phlox which we once had and which appeared to itself revert to light magenta pink. Was long inclined to suspect direct reversion, but now have to agree with the usual explanation; namely that seedlings (themselves reverting back to the wild Phlox paniculata flower colour and which are much more vigorous than cultivars) replaced the original cultivar.