Turning your yard into a cave, until they blight off, break up or blow over. If these aren't dwarf lilacs they will grow much taller than they are now. However, tall shrubs or trees right next to a wood fence will probably become a headache when the fence needs some work. I suppose the shade and dampness they foster might even cause some work on the fence to be needed. Make a bed where tree(s) can be planted well out from the fence instead. If this doesn't seem like it would work maybe talk to a garden designer about organizing your spaces to meet your needs. You might even have to use an architectural solution like a gazebo, trellis or arbor if trees don't seem like they will fit.

Laura The main reasons to use third party coils are price and improved performance/efficiency numbers for the AC/HP system to achieve the qualifying standards for the Fed Govt tax credit. However, it is my understanding that the third party coil manufacturers used computer models/programming to establish these numbers while the OEMs used true laboratory testing methods. Of course, I am certain the OEMs screamed about this this and apparently the govt cracked down on the third party coil manufacturers this past summer. I personally prefer the OEM to the third party coil especially in your case since the tax credit is a moot issue. I suggest you ask for the third party coil AHRI number and the Lennox AHRI number for review. I would rather have the Lennox coil that reached 15 SEER than a computer model third party coil that supposedly reached 16 SEER. Not enough difference to quibble over. Plain and simple-your dealer is blowing smoke about the HW VP IAQ stat that has dehumidify on demand feature. It is a tested stat that has proved its worthiness in this area. You must though have a two stg thermostat for this mdl furnace to work the most efficient. Do not get snookered over the smaller furnace. That is the way to go-both furnaces together would yield 112 KBTUs on high stage which is a gracious plenty. If in doubt, request a load calc in writing. just trying to be helpful. Why the urgency? Is this an emergency? IMO

St. Augustine is a warm-season grass that goes dormant (brown) in winter, so best to wait until spring to plant for zone 8.

There are so many variables - soil type, atmospheric humidity, temperature and some others - that it is very hard, probably impossible, to come up with rules for watering. IMHO, 2 gallons or so per week delivered by soaker hose is not likely to be nearly enough unless there has been a great deal of rain. The browning needles are likely an indication of too little water. It isn't tremendously accurate, but reaching down to the root ball with your fingers and testing for dryness is better than relying on some sort of formula. If the root ball feels dry to the touch, water it with a hose. 45 minutes as the tree guy said seems pretty reasonable and I doubt very much if he was talking about 45 minutes worth of soaker hose. Another thing that is very helpful for summer planted trees is to spray them with a fine mist such as that produced by a Fog-It type nozzle. This lowers the temperature, increases humidity and slows transpiration of moisture even if none is directly absorbed. This can be done several times a day. For large trees at this time of year and assuming decent soil drainage, under watering is usually a greater danger than over watering.