If your Meyer's needs repotting, use a pot 1-2 sizes larger than the pot it's in. Use a well-draining soil..I use all purpose, sand, peat and Perlite. Keep plant in bright light to full sun. Set outdoors while the weahter's still nice. Fertilize w/a citrus or azlalia fertiliers. Follow container directions. I don't blame you for waiting on the construction..when we had our roof done, they killed a few of my plants including the first rose I've ever grown. So, it's best to wait..after they finish, then plant your citrus in a sunny spot in the garden..Toni

Hello all, I searched this forum and the web before asking these questions but can't seem to find solid answers so hoping you all could help. Two Meyer lemons, both containerized, 5-2-1 mix, water every 4-5 days, during summer fertilized with 1 tablespoon foilage pro per gallon at every watering (every 4-5 days). Pots flushed with water once a month. Outside, sunniest spot in my yard which is probably "1/2 sun" at best. Will spend the winter outdoors. Question 1) during winter how much foilage pro can I give them? At every watering like before? Should I drop down to the recommended 1/4 tsp per gallon? Question 2) A few of the branches 1/4-1/2" in diameter started off dark green in spring, went all summer and began turning a green/yellow, or possibly light green color in September. It hasn't gotten any "yellower", but still has me slightly concerned. Can it be slowly changing to a harder wood? thanks to all! Nick

I just got a Washington Navel about that size from HD a few weeks ago and it is a rooted cutting, it has a multi branch structure as well but I prefer bush shape to tree shape so I am leaving it. Bush shape provides more branches and available space to set fruit, I would like the highest yield possible out of my trees so I go for that. If you don't care as much about how many lemons you get and want it to be more ornamental than producing go ahead and trim one of them off but I would wait until the tree is more established, if your cut it off now it may shock it and kill it or it may not have enough leaves left to give enough energy for the plant to survive. If you know that's what you want to do, pick your leader/trunk branch and stake only that one and let the other hang/do what it wants. (I would straighten the stake as its making the tree lean now) That way when you cut off the one branch the first one is already trained in the correct shape. You don't want to leave the stake forever as it will make the trunk weak/dependent on it and it could break from the weight of the top. I use the 5-1-1 or other bark based mixes with success and fertilize with Foligle Pro (switching to Jacks for cost when I am out of FP) once a week. You should be able to make that into a great little tree with the right TLC. Gook Luck! This is a picture of my Navel, it has the one branch that could be the leader and I am debating staking it or just letting it do whatever it wants. It's trying to set a bunch of oranges but I'll be pulling off whatever it doesn't drop on it's own until the tree is at least twice its current size.

Wow! That tree looks great! Way better than my puny little thing! These pictures of everyone’s trees make me want to go out and get more to experiment with! I’m starting to second guess an LED as I was just told any good quality one will be expensive which makes me think any reasonably priced ones on amazon are just a waste of money, even if I spend 50$ on a bulb. Leaning towards a CFL now. I am still new at this too but if I were you, had a light, wanted to continue active growth throughout the Chicago winter.... I would repot in the 5-1-1. Which I just did! With the poor growing conditions inside a condo, that soil isn’t going to allow the plant to hold up over the winter, even with the lights. If you are needing to water so much to keep it from wilting or drying out you may just be making the problem worse because that water might be sitting at the bottom still and I’ve read that root rot with over watering can look like a dehydrated tree that wilts because the roots can’t take up any of that extra water. Those roots you are seeing surface may be because they are looking for better air and drainage so they can actually take in the water they need. Or it may just be time for a bigger pot. Either way the answer would be to totally repot in new soil. I’d at least check the roots, mix in some 5-1-1 if you don’t want to ”totally re-pot” but it seems like you need way better draining soil for it to survive. if I were you, again...I’d just want to start fresh and not worry, I think it was worth it to take the risk. that’s just me though. I also have a humidifier running about 90% of the day right next to it. Indoor air is way too dry. I know others say it’s not needed but so far, id say it’s a huge help. I don’t know about pruning or if you should fertilize or not but I’d def change that soil at least 50% to the 5-1-1 and get a humidifier. I just totally repotted but in the same size pot, all I did was take out the “self watering“ component and add a lot more holes in the bottom and 4 on the side about an inch or 2 up the pot all across each other so there is a small hole on every side. I did the 5-1-1 with a tiny amount of slow release fertilizer and watered with half the recommended dose for indoors which is already half for outside of dyno gro. So far so good! I also wanted to add the fertilizer because it was lacking in something already and I have new buds and little lemons which I know takes up a lot of the nutrients which is maybe why the rest of the tree was suffering and getting chlorosis and yellowing leaves. Your leaves look good though so idk. very long explanation and answer short... just repot it. I know a lot of people here say not to do this in the winter but if it needs it now, it can’t wait all winter!