I'm a bit confused on where the wall oven and raised DW are going, but right off the bat, I would pull the refrigerator over to the wall near the pantry and recess it. Do you need all that counter space where the prep sink is? On paper that angle looks like a pinch point for entering the kitchen. I think I'd rather make that counter deeper and remove the angle.

I know you like symmetry and will want a large pantry for the storage, but...if there is a way to reposition the pantry and turn the peninsula into an island, you could have some circulation in the house. Right now there is only one way to get anywhere. With back pain, you may want it easier to get from the kitchen to the rest of the of the house.

Cpartist made excellent suggestions. The dogleg counter is inefficient and creates a choke point in kitchen. The new pantry cabinets also will have far more usable shelving. The island also allows two accesses to the kitchen - less traffic pileups!

Cpartist, what you did was amazing! I really love the design. Do you think shifting all the appliances along with the sink and trash can located on the island towards the sink would be better functioning. I feel as it is now that i would run a marathon every time i had to cook.

I think the way I laid it out will work great. Here's the thing.

We take food out of the fridge and bring it to the sink. In this case you'd bring it to the prep sink on the island.

We wash our food stuff, then bring it to the counter next to the sink to prep. So you'll have that whole large island space to prep the food while talking to your guests.

After that we bring the food to the cooktop to cook it. Self explanatory. :)

A second person can also be working alongside and prepping using the main sink on the window wall. And with the 48" aisles, you'll have plenty of room to maneuver around. Plus with it now being an island, it's easy to get in and out from each spot in the kitchen.

Make the pantry cabinets pull out shelving and you can get so much in there.

Make sure all lower cabinets are all drawers and then you can store your dishes in the second of a 3 drawer stack which will help with back issues.

I think cpartist's layout would work very well. I'll just suggest a narrow (12-15") cab b/w the raised dw and the sink to give you elbow room.

Good idea sena. Or another possibility is the Kohler Stages sink.

Much better! I second sena01 on the elbow room.

Definitely put some counterspace b/w the sink and DW. In fact, the NKBA says you need a minimum of 24" on one side the same height and 3" on the other side for landing space (not workspace) - but Sena's recommendation is much better (not surprising, the NKBA often mentions spaces that, in reality, are really too small/shallow.)

My other suggestion is that instead of 24" deep pantry cabinets you put in 12" or so deep shelves as a reach-in pantry. I think they would be better for someone with back problems b/c there's no having to dig around in 24" deep x 24"wide (or more) shelves. But, I could be wrong... (They're also more efficient and accessible storage in general.)

My other suggestion is that instead of 24" deep pantry cabinets you put in 12" or so deep shelves as a reach-in pantry. I think they would be better for someone with back problems b/c there's no having to dig around in 24" deep x 24"wide (or more) shelves. But, I could be wrong... (They're also more efficient and accessible storage in general.)

Below are some examples of using 24" cabinets. No having to dig around because the cabinets pull out.

Classic Beach House · More Info

SPACE TOWER · More Info

The 18" pullout is fine (1st picture), in fact I do sometimes recommend 18" pullout pantry cabinets. (And sometimes 12" wide utility pullouts.) You can see everything because (1) all shelves pull out at the same time and (2) you can look at one side and then the other to see what's on the shelves.

The second picture, though, does not appear to have 24" deep shelves, that's why it works. 12-inch deep shelves for this type of storage seems to be the "sweet spot" for pantries.

However, with 12" deep stationary (but adjustable) shelves, you wouldn't have to waste space with pull out hardware & pullout shelf sides/fronts/backs b/c you can see everything at one glance, nothing can "hide", and you don't need to "pull" the shelf to access the items - even on the bottom shelves.

It's also why "built in" pantries are usually less expensive (sometimes far less) than 24" deep pantry cabinets.

Plus, if you have a "built-in" pantry, you can use the entire space - floor to ceiling! No accommodating a toekick, cabinet top, or space b/w the top of the cabinet & ceiling.

I see you're right beuhl about the second pantry pic. I have no problems with a narrower depth pantry, but wanted to show all the different possibilities for the OP.

I'm wondering if anyone has ever incorporated the DW into a pantry cabinet? My thinking is since it needs to be raised, the top is probably too high for counter space, but would be great with cabinet doors that reach to the counter? Something similar to the coffee station I'm doing for my DH?

Hmm...interesting thought! But, would the raised DW make it too difficult to reach the cabinets above it? Maybe the first couple of shelves would be fine....

Something to think about/through! (Might even work in my future Kitchen...we're relatively tall, so we might be able to reach several shelves up even with a 24" deep DW raised 6 to 12 inches!)

Regarding this thread, I wonder if a combination of a utility cabinet for brooms, a narrow pullout pantry for some items, and then a built-in for the rest would work & give Rhonda a variety of storage options.

I was actually thinking of keeping the back pantry and putting in 12" deep shelves floor to ceiling and then adding another pantry to the foyer wall with only 6" deep shelves. I realize the island would need to be narrowed to accommodate this. The hubby is worried about not having enough panty space now that I am removing the walk in and this will pacify him.

Well hopefully we gave you some additional ideas of what to do. You do need to move the DW down so there is space between the sink and the raised counter.