Help with long succulents, dropping leaves near bottom (see pic)

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

Hi everyone! I've had these five succulents for a few years, never really knowing what they were or whether they had different care needs. For a while they seemed to be doing fine, but I moved into a new place about 9 months ago and a few of them seem to be getting pretty long (the three closest to the window). They are still growing new leaves at the top, but the bottom leaves shriveled up and dropped. I've read that this might be due to needing more sunlight (though the windowsill they are on gets a lot of sun!), and that they might need cutting.

I've never cut a succulent before and am afraid of doing it incorrectly, so any advice there also greatly appreciated. Any and all comments to help me get these guys back in shape greatly appreciated--thank you so much!

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rina_Ontario,Canada 5a

6 years ago

As for fertilizing, I suggested not to fertilize if poor light - if they are in proper/better light, that's another story.

Plant looks more like S. crassissimus than jade. I am not absolute sure, I do not have that plant and don't remember seeing one, but am quite familiar with jades. While those plants grow taller stems, many photos (including one you just posted) show quite compact growth. Other plants in OPs photo are showing signs of inadequate light to.

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Comments (6)

lisasfbay9b
6 years ago
Tall one is a Senecio. Don;t be afraid to cut, use a sharp knife or clipper, allow the wound to dry out and scab over before placing it in some perlite or a super well draining gritty mix. Make sure you don;t water until it has roots, pink heallthy roots can absorb water, a naked stem can only rot:-)
Ryan Singrossi
6 years ago
You can cut those down to about an inch above the media, the tallest one leave a few inches 3 or 4 would be good. You will se them pushing new growth in no time, they will sprout new tips and branch. Take the cuttings lay them on top of soil til they start growing roots. Then water once a week when you see roots growing or you wiggle the plant and it feels securely attached to the soil. The tall one looks like a etiolated Crassula ovata (jade plant) you also have a kalanchoe (the fuzzy one) the purple one is a graptoveria. Also if you don't cut them they would benefit from a balanced fertilizer immediately.... If you cut them wait about a month. Mine get 14-14-14 the start of spring in a slow release formula. The one in front is looking a little yellow. I would also suggest slowly introducing them to more light... What is the soil like? Take a picture of it?
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Most succulents get darker color in appropriate amount of sun. There are many different sempervivums, more than 3000 named cultivars. Some are very similar looking. They are Alpines, and grow in mountains at approx. 3000-8000m. Maybe you would find some if you went for a hike in the mountains :) Plant that was red may have not get as much sun as it can take. SE exposure sounds good, but if there are any trees or buildings, they could filter some of the sun. Even some railings on the balcony could be obstructing the sun. Morning sun is usually not as intense. Ppl in warm zones have sometimes problems because of the heat, and keep them in shadier spots. I have them probably in too much sun, it is open area with E,S and west unobstructed exposure. I hardly ever water them, usually if it doesn't rain for about a week. Maybe you are watering to much? In Germany, the climate is good for them. I would keep them on the balcony whole year round. I see from the photos that they are growing well, and there are many offsets/chicks. In 2nd photo, many are very open: if plant wants more sunlight, it opens up - flattens, so there is bigger area to get the sun. Colors also lighten up, gets greener if plant was darker, or even very light green. This happens with many succulents. Here is photo of the same plant in poor light and in lots of sun: They should be acclimatized to stronger sun, or they get a sunburn. But now days are getting shorter, and sunlight is not as intense.
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Even from first photo you posted that wasn't clear enough, I suspected exactly what you found...It rotted, and Kara gave you good advice. Just do not leave any rot in that stem because it will continue spreading. I also set big plants in empty pots and you can check for callusing every few days. Good luck in re-rooting it. Hope you post follow-up photos. Btw, I would check remaining stem - part with the roots. Occasionally, rot doesn't go (or starts) from roots, it may start from an injury on the stem. Check it out by cutting thin slices of the trunk toward soil line. Bare-root remaining stem to see what is the condition of roots. If roots - or most of them - are OK and after cutting rotten part there is any stem left, just pot it up into well draining mix and it may grow. No guarantees, but you never know unless you try. Some succulents do not grow from leftover stem readily. Since there are roots, start regular watering after day or two. I keep mine in mix of grit, coarse perlite and just a little turface. Pumice is great instead of perlite.
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rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I don't think the 'tall one' is Crassula ovata - wrong shape of leaves and stem and growth habit to be jade...plants are etiolated, they need more light. Fertilizer will not help - unless more light is provided, they will keep growing tall, skinny and weak. Fertilizing plants under low light isn't going to make it grow better. Beheading is best solution - but if they stay in low light, cuttings will continue growing same way.

Is there a drainage hole in that container?
Ryan Singrossi
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Thanks rina. Do you think it's a senecio? What type? Crassissimus? If they are moved into proper light fertilizer would help give them color and the plants look pretty old, so I would imagine the pots been leached of nutrients. I water a commercial greenhouse full of succulents with a water soluable solution everyother month 50ppm except June-July and the end of dec-January in zone 9B and the months they don't get 50ppm hey go from beautiful color to yellow. One of the plants I give fertilizer to goes from a gray purple to a blue/green-purple after they get fed. When it's cold out the be growth risks cold damage and when it's too hot the new growth risks being burned.
Ryan Singrossi
6 years ago
Plantgroweat here is a good example

of a senecio that has better lighting that has been chopped back taken from davesgarden website...

Help with long succulents, dropping leaves near bottom (see pic)

rina_Ontario,Canada 5a

Comments (6)

lisasfbay9b

Ryan Singrossi

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