John, I have been where you are. Many times:(.

There are just some plants that the meallies will not go away. No matter how hard you've tried. When this happens I reach for the big guns. A systemic:(. I do NOT like using them, and I have a handful of plants that I use it for. You have to weigh out the pros and cons of using a systemic. The major con for me is it kills all bugs good and bad. Plus I'm sure it would kill or do lots of harm to humming birds. That does not make me happy, but I just can't sometimes.

The plants I use a systemic on. I always cut their blooms. I don't want to be responsible for dead beneficial bugs, birds, or whatever decides to drink the nectar. The plants I've "poisoned" I keep away from where the squirrels are too. These toxic fluids are not good, but they will get rid of those ugly pests:).

This is the Systemic I use. I use the liquid at half strength because I've burned plants using the full strength the directions say. I find half to be enough.

Wear gloves too because I've heard of people getting it on their skin, and getting sick. I'm not trying to scare you, but just trying to drill in the fact that this stuff is no bueno for the environment and the creatures(including you:)) that live in it. The darn stuff works amazingly though:).

Question: I've heard a lot about mealies. Will they only get on plants outside? I have my babies indoors. Could they possibly get them from other plants that come from outdoor nurseries though?

Kara - So that Bayer comes in a liquid form too? I don't see that. All of my plants are indoors so I wouldn't have to worry about killing good bugs or harming the environment.

succulentss - I have an indoor mealybug problem and it came from plants I bought at Lowe's and Home Depot. I just got a plant from Lowe's the other day and found mealies on it when I got it home. They were very small and I only saw them with a jeweler's loupe. You may have them and not even realize it unless you are checking all of your plants under a magnifying glass. I did not realize I had a problem until they started spreading.

Succulentss, any bug that's outside can come inside, too...

Treating for mealybugs is not a 'one shot deal', unless you use systemic. That's because the pesticides/alcohol/soap don't kill the eggs. So it is normal to treat once, then wait two weeks, treat again, wait two weeks, and treat a third time if required.

That's not the pesticide/alcohol/soap being ineffective it's just the protective nature of eggs. The waiting period allows the next generation to hatch and be killed off before they can reproduce.

Reading the label instructions is VERY important before use. That will let you know how ensure the pesticide will be effective and reduce the chance of plant damage. As well tell you how to protect yourself in case of any hazardous exposure.

If you choose to use systemic, please read the label follow the instructions carefully. It is very bad for the environment as it can kill bees and other pollinators. Do not inhale the spray or fumes, use gloves, wash your long clothes, don't re-enter the treated plants and area for 16 hours, etc.

Careful inspection of all plants is also very key.

Pyrethrin and insecticidal soap can cause phytotoxicity. The more applications or leaving your plants in the sun after will damage them. Being careful helps prevent or reduce the damage.

By the way, another question about mealybugs... do they prefer some plants over others? I have a kalanchoe and haworthia planted with a portulacaria that has mealies, but the bugs don't seem to be interested in the other two plants. I can see how maybe the fine hairs of the kalanchoe would make it difficult for them to get around, and the haworthia has rather thick leaves.

I'm sure this is true. I don't know for a fact, but I will have a pot with a combo of succulents. There will be meallies on every plant, but one. Idk why tbh. Could have to do with the health of the plant, and the ability to fight off pests. Could also be you bought a plant that has been treated with Neonicotinoids. Quote from beyondpesticides.org "Neonicotinoids are a relatively new class of insecticides that share a common mode of action that affect the central nervous system of insects, resulting in paralysis and death. They include imidacloprid, acetamiprid, clothianidin, dinotefuran, nithiazine, thiacloprid and thiamethoxam."

Crazy thing! I better knock on wood, but I have never ever had a meallybug on any of my cactus. Who knows why, but it is true. I usually find them on Echeveria, Sempervivums,and Aeoniums.

Neonics started being used in the 1990's , so they're not really new. The Bayer Advanced pictured higher in this thread contains imidacloprid, which is probably the same thing used on the plant label above. You see them on plants on Home Depot because they ask their suppliers to label them. There is no legal requirement to do so, at least not in California, so getting a plant without the neonic label is not guarantee that they weren't treated. For me, it's a last resort chemical.

the bugs need to poke through the stems to get the sap, that's why you find them at the tips of young shoots that are more tender and with more easily accessible sap. So some plants with thicker skin will be less prone to infestation. Also not all sap taste the same, so the bugs will go for the sweetest to them and with less toxins. That's why some plants can be in the clear next to another infested one.

some mealies will get down in the roots which makes it impossible to treat with a contact insect treatment. I am pretty sure that you are not supposed to use the Bayer product inside. Please take your plants outside to treat. Of course if you read the label you will find this out.

Whenever you are treating for pests, it's good to use a few different modes of action. Wiping the bugs off of leaves is a good first step, as it is physically removing adult bugs. Spraying with insecticide is effective, but will take several applications to ensure you are destorying all generations of bugs on the plant. BUT, bugs can build up a tolerance to any kind of commercial insecticide...so it's also a good idea to use neem or some other horticulture oil to smother the bugs. This might take a few applications, but oils are pretty effective as bugs cannot build an immunity to a smothering agent.

I have used Bayer 3-in-1 insect, disease and mite control (a systemic) it can be used on houseplants. I buy the 32 ounce concentrate from Homedepot, mix it and put it in a sprayer. I will also water my plants with it. I have used it on sansevieria, epiphyllums, Schlumbergera, rhipsalis, rhipsalidopsis and jades. I don't put it on or in anything that is going to flower, it will kill bees.

I have recently used Bonide for houseplants, also a systemic, for bugs and is a powder you sprinkle on the soil. I had an emergency (found some scale and root mealies) and found it at my local Agway.

Bayer 3-in-1 would work very well. Same as tree and shrub (but there are no directions on it for houseplants). Bonide has the same active ingredient - Imidacloprid. It kills bees so not to be used on anything flowering outside!

For removing adult crawlers, I use a metal dental pick to spear them. They will not build resistance to alcohol or insecticidal soap. Mealybugs don't reproduce as fast as other types (thrips, mites, whiteflies) so resistance is not as big a concern. If you use a pesticide three times in a row, then it's a good idea to switch to another (which could be insecticidal soap), then you can rotate back to the original one.

You can use Bayer 3-in-1 on houseplants. The directions say not to use it inside. Take them outside, treat, wait until they dry to bring them back in the house.

I have watered my plants inside with the mixture.

I am a big fan of Bayer 3-in-1 also. I have used it on outside shrubs badly infected with mealies. I put a large capful in a 2 gallon watering can and covered 2 or 3 shrubs, then repeated for another 2 or 3 shrubs, and continued until all 18 were done. In container plants (all kept outside), I use it in a spray bottle, about 1 part Bayer to 6 or 7 parts water and I spray the daylights out of the plant. Mostly I have used it on crassula, haworthia, and aloe, plus a couple of gasteria. And like Nancy, above, I have also used it to water container plants -- a good drench always works. I have had great luck with 3-in-1 and recommend it highly.

I've had good results with Avid.

I've had promising results using Talstar with imidacloprid granules. Talstar is a contact insecticide, i.e., kills on contact. Talstar is used more in the commercial agricultural business and is avaiable online for reasonable cost. The active ingredient, but not as strong, is available in BBS as Bug B Gone. The granules provide three month systemic protection and deal with soil infestations. I add a surfactant to the Talstar. Avid looks like a great product used in limited situations, especially as a miticide and ow for whitefly, aphids and thrips; somewhat pricy.

If you want to use an imidacloprid based product, Bayer Complete (Active ingredients: 0.36% β-cyfluthrin; 0.72% Imidacloprid) offers the most bang for your buck. It is usually sold as a premixed ready to use spray and as a concentrate.