Starloc, Might it be because I accidently let that room get to cool at night for a few nights, which in turn cooled the soil at night ? I normally keep the room 65 degrees and up at night, but for a few nights, meaning at least a week, it got down into the high 50's low 60's at night. I warmed it back up again. If you say it could be a nutrient defficiency, or that the plant is upset, could it be that it took up no nutrients when soil was cold at night for a while which in turn caused the leaf problem and drop in this case? Does this make sense? I hope so. I hope it is just a matter of soil temp. I have been keeping the lights on as normal, and now that I am keeping it warmer in there at night, I hope the leaf drop stops. By the way, there is no new leaves replacing the old ones yet. All the fallen leaves are from the bottom and center of tree and through out. When I get new growth, these branches don't fill out again, I just get new growth from the top of the branches while the center stays bare. Strang ha? I am having no problems with all my other citrus other than this "lemon meyer". I am begining to think that "lemon meyers" are a very sensitive plant...lol All it seems they like is very warm conditions and very sunny conditions too. Anything other than this they seem to dislike. To me, I think they are more finicky than my gardenias. Oh well, as long as the branches don't start dying back, I hope it will fill out in summer again. Please let me know what you think ok. Thanks alot.

Actually, I didn't make that implication. I mentioned that foliar applications of nutrients have a place and can be effective, usually within a very narrow set of parameters, and to varying degrees depending on plant material, what nutrient is deficient, what you're using, how it's applied, often WHEN it's applied. A grower's program might be described as 'willy nilly' when the grower uses foliar applications of nutrients w/o answers to critical questions and especially when they don't even understand the questions, the answers to which determine efficacy. That's simply flying blind, and makes willy nilly is a fair adjective. Foliar aps of nutrients can't/don't work unless there is actually a deficiency of the nutrients you are supplying. In the case where multiple nutrients are being supplied, it's possible that a deficiency mighty be corrected at the same time a toxicity is being introduced because you're supplying a nutrient that is already amply available, which means that more of same has only the potential to limit. A well-reasoned approach to nutrition would find the grower answering a number of questions related to the potential to improve things or add to the number of factors that are potentially limiting. Absent tissue and or soil analysis, if foliar applications have a notable value when used on plants that can actually absorb nutrients from foliar applications, it lies more in its ability to act as an aid in identifying a deficiency than actually relieving one, but the act of applying a number of nutrients all at the same time eliminates any potential help from that quarter because when all is done, you won't likely have fixed the issue and still won't know which nutrient applied. Linda Chalker-Scott is a horticultural scientist with a PhD. She is probably most noted for helping the growing community by debunking horticultural myths, one of which is the assertion that foliar applications are an effective/efficient way to provide plant nutrition. How well and how thoroughly we qualify our offerings with facts rather than observations/statements that are often very subjective or biased serves not only to illustrate our grasp of the topic, it also serves to keep our credibility intact. When we actually have the best interest of the grower at the forefront and are providing reliable, well-qualified information, what sells it is our credibility. I've always limited myself to operating only within the limits of my knowledge, which is why whenever anything I say is challenged, I have all the facts I need at my disposal to back my offering. I never have to rely on selling my offering by using statements like "It works for me" or it might not be the best way, but ........ Dr Scott takes on the topic of Foliar Feeding, here. If you take the time to peruse her offering, you'll find her and my qualifying information amazingly close to the same, so it's not as though I'm a lone voice in the wilderness on this topic or operating beyond the limits of my knowledge. The crux of the issue is, it's very unlikely you'll gain any real traction via foliar feeding, and more likely you'll end up worse off than when you started, even if the plant ends up looking prettier (I qualified that statement above, too). I hope Dr Scott's offering helps us get to the point where we needn't keep belaboring this and similar points. Al

It has long ago been proven putting rocks in the bottom of a container is a bad idea. Doing so raises the perched water table higher into the container and the tree's root system As to your soil test results, the nitrogen should be high, the phosphorous should test rather low and the potassium should be high. Below I have posted a link showing citrus with a potassium deficiency. https://www.google.com/search?q=potassium+deficiency+citrus&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS900US900&oq=potassium+deficiency+in+citrus+leaves&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.27068j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-B AND https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/citrus/nutrient-deficiencies/potassium-deficiency-on-mandarin-citrus/

Sorry for quick double-post.... To answer Hu's question about spraying: you are in a tricky spot because of the weather. As Silica said, you don't want to spray your leaves when it is hot (>75-80 degrees) because that can cook your leaves. My Meyer has been growing like crazy for the last 1-2 months but in Phoenix it is still 100 degrees. So, much of my new growth is deformed. I try and spray with water to knock the thrips loose periodically, but can't seem to keep up with it. In other words, you have few options during summer/fall flushes when you live in warmer climates like we do. I'm not aware of anything else you can do besides a rigorous spraying with water, multiple times a week as long as you are getting new growth.