Is this early blight?
moiraine_gw
6 years ago
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digdirt2
6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Early Blight? Late Blight?? Combination?
Comments (1)Not sure what this is, but I've seen it on some of my plants recently here in PA. Wasn't there last week, but we've had non-stop rain and a few colder nights since then. If anyone can ID this, it would help me as well....See MoreLate blight v.s Early blight
Comments (1)No. nothing to do with when they get the disease. They are two different diseases....See MoreAck! Septoria (Early Blight)!
Comments (9)Hmm....Just to clear this up, do you have early blight or septoria leaf spot? They are two different diseases. Each can be treated fairly similarly however. It would also be helpful if you posted a picture so that we can have a look at the disease progression. These are two diseases we commonly deal with here, especially in wetter seasons. In my personal experience, cutting foliage is useless once the disease is fairly active on the plants. If I see a bit on the lower leaves, as I commonly do, I will just prune those, and it does help being that it's not well established in taking over the plant; but if it's actively progressing it's useless. An absolutely crucial control method I have found for both leaf spot and blight is placing the plants in a spot that gets morning sun as early as possible. Why? So that morning dew, if any, doesn't sit on the plants for hours and hours until the sun finally hits. This is a fantastic breeding ground for fungi. Of course, those conditions are not always optimal. That's why I also use a fungicide, normally Daconil. If going organic, there are many others (serenade, copper, etc.), but I prefer Daconil to its organic counterparts. I spray about every 7-10 days, as per instructions, and it certainly works. I may get a bit of disease develop on the lower leaves as I mentioned before, but it's well controlled and will not progress very easily. Both morning sun and fungicides combined is a sure way of controlling the disease under normal conditions. Of course, preventative measures don't apply to the diseases you already have. You can try a fungicide, like Daconil for example, but fungicides are better used as a preventative measure. At this point, assuming it's blight or leaf spot, I would just use a strong fungicide and hope for the best. They may come out of it and push out new growth. I also notice you are using a high nitrogen fertilizer? Based on my research, tomatoes fed high nitrogen fertilizer will tend not to produce fruit due to focusing on foliage production with the abundance of nitrogen. This could be different in a situation as yours with losing quite a bit of foliage as it is, but still a possible concern. Hopefully someone else with a bit more experience than I have will chime in on that. Good luck, and keep fighting the battle. Septoria leaf spot sucks :( Here's an article that may be helpful: https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs547/...See MoreEarly blight on tomatoes... what to do with the soil next?
Comments (14)anchita It looks like the previous resident grew tomatoes, or another nightshade, in that soil and had a blight problem. It's true that it's very difficult to tell what blight you have. I have taken very detailed closeup pictures of a variety of leafs in various stages of development. I can't tell one from another, so I just call it blight. I'd suggest you plant tomatoes in various spots in your yard and watch what happens. Plant the next years crops where you get the best results. Hopefully you'll find two spots without problems. You know you have problems with your yard, so do Not grow tomatoes two years in a row in the same spot. The second good spot, if you have one, should be saved for another year. I hope your space is big enough to accomplish the above tests. In the bay area can you plant a second tomato crop for this fall. In the meanwhile it's suggested you remove the bottom leafs from the plant to allow air to flow permitting the plant to dry out. When you water don't wet the plant, apply the water to the ground. My suggestion to over fertilize is not an accepted solution, but from my experience it worked. I used manure, actually it was bulk mushroom compost. Be careful, don't over fertilize. Also from my experience the copper sprays didn't help me. It's a preventative and I get enough rain that it's always washed off, and then I won't use it when the tomatoes develop, so I gave up on that....See Moredigdirt2
6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomoiraine_gw
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6 years agohokiehorticulture
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agofbx22
6 years agohokiehorticulture
6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodigdirt2
6 years agoFastInk
6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
6 years agogorbelly
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodigdirt2
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agogorbelly
6 years agomoiraine_gw
6 years ago
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Peter (6b SE NY)