Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

I would certainly save a pretty penny if I skipped the panels :) However, at night and most days in the winter when the blinds are closed to keep some warmth in, the room and that wall needs a pick me up of color. (See pic below.) But I agree with all of you that I want to cover the windows as minimally as possible and just have a panel that fills the space of white wall board between the windows and at the ends. They will never close, just be stationary. Here's an updated picture of the room with current furniture. Need a coffee, end and sofa table and something for the wall on the right. The final panels would go to the floor not 3/4 as in the picture. The sample fabric I bought is not long enough. I'm liking @terriks idea of back tab panels as well.

@Yayagal thanks for that link - ive visited her blog before and its super helpful! I mentioned before the possibility of doing something with actual stone of the fireplace (not right now, but someday)- like whitewashing or over-grouting.....these are some links that show fireplaces similar to ours that they changed. It feels like a big project and a permanent change so im a bit scared to take it on (plus the fact that we would have two fireplaces to do, since its double-sided). But i like how these turned out and it softened the look and neutralized the yellow-ness of the stone: http://lovelivinghereco.com/fireplace/ https://westhousephotography.squarespace.com/blog/our-fireplace-makeover?epik=dj0yJnU9cW5ySGRYTl9USC1Kcm9lUTFkT1RvS0lINV84X2h0dmUmcD0wJm49aGJSdUNSNUJZajJyMFJtbzRUWkJXUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0s3UkNj Not sure if others have done this before? Or what thoughts are about overgrouting. It seems like a big change that if we screw it up it could be really bad and some could see it as "changing the character of the home" but I at least like the idea of it and how it turned out in these examples!

FLATS: Width is 58"+10"x2 sides = 78" x 66" high x 1.2 for waste is 43square feet CORNERS: 2x66" tall is 132" or 11' of corners (get 12') The purpose of getting an abundant amount of material is to assure matching materials purchased at the same time, eliminating additional trips for more material, etc. unless your time is cheap. If you want a hearth, sketch it all out and recalculate. Get materials for your hearth top - approx 5' wide x 15-18" deep depending on materials, etc.