Wow. You are so right. I just read about how it spreads...twigs, leaves and fruit. You just have to get rid of the affected leaves that fall on the soil. What was I thinking? You don't throw away the soil from a plant that gets mold or mildew....just the leaves. Thanks for the heads up. "The bacterium Xanthomonas pruni overwinters in twigs that are infected late in the season about the time leaves are shed. The following spring, when environmental conditions are favorable, bacteria ooze out onto the surface of these twigs. The bacteria are then spread by windblown or splashing rain and can result in new infections throughout the growing season. The bacteria come in contact with healthy leaves, fruit and current-year twigs and enter the tissues through stomata or lenticels when surface moisture is present. Once inside healthy tissues, the bacteria multiply and disease develops. Warm temperatures (70-85 degrees F, 2l-29 degrees C) with light rains, heavy dews or fogs and windy weather are most conducive for disease development and spread. The disease makes little progress when weather is hot and dry."

The baby leaves are rather beat up and, in the 2nd image, toward the right side is serpentine evidence of a leafminer. I suggest you keep all the leaves. (That seedling needs all the hlep it can get.) But please take gently squish the serpentine trail between you r fingers. The remain alert and, if you see more such trails, squish those also.

I have some crown of thorns (euphorbia milii) that I suspect are infected with xanthomonas axonopodis pv. poinsettiicola. My neighbors have crotons that are probably infected with it, too. From what I have read, I don't think this species of xanthomonas is pathogenic for tomatoes. However, other species that are pathogenic for tomatoes are endemic where I live. I would like to both treat my crown of thorns and prevent bacterial leaf spot on my tomatoes (which I think I had last year). I currently spray the crown of thorns with copper, which helps a bit and I sprayed the tomatoes with copper last year as I will again. I didn't spray the copper prophylactically on the tomatoes last year, only once I saw symptoms. This year I will spray prophylactically. From all I have read, copper has some bactericidal effect, but the bacteria develop resistance over time so it is recommended to add other agents. I can buy manzate and streptomycin (agrimycin), both of which have been shown to kill xanthomonas as well as to help prevent the development of copper resistance by the bacteria. Has anyone here ever used these products? The products are only available in large quantities, but the cost is less than my crown of thorns cost and I am ready to pull them and replant since they look so ugly. I thought I would give these products a try first and I could use them on my tomatoes, too, to prevent/treat bacterial leaf spot.

I was always envious of Florida weather, till I read how much you guys have to spray for diseases due to humidity. Sorry, I don't know enough about commercial strength remedies to help out. I get by with compost tea and neem oil, and aside from that late blight year, by the time my tomatoes start showing widespread symptoms of common diseases, there are only a few weeks left before killer frost shows up anyway. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable replies soon >.>