Question on lasagna gardening
cooper8828
6 years ago
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daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agocooper8828 thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)cooper8828
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Lasagna Garden
Comments (8)Has anyone done this on a gentle slope? I have no flat areas in my yard - I live on the side of a hill. I'm turning a roughly 20' x 15' area into a veggie garden but would do just about anything to avoid having to dig out all that sod!! Can I build raised beds on a slope? I could then just put newspaper down and dump mulch in between the beds. And I wouldn't have to dig out so many of the New England rocks in my soil!! I pretty much know how to make a lasagna bed, but it's making the "boxes" on the slope I'm wondering about. I suppose the boxes can just follow the slope of the ground - I don't "have" to level them - it's not a steep slope, but it's no where near level. Not by a longshot. Lisa...See MoreQuestion about lasagna gardening
Comments (6)I am definitely not as experienced as the others but it is my understanding that ultimately, any organic material (OM) added will decompose. So theoretically, once the material you add on top is decomposed, the level will return to exactly what it was before you added anything (though this could take a few years). My advice is to dig where you need to dig relatively large holes. Put some OM at the bottom of the holes and plant. This will cause them to be a little above the dirt level. Then spread your newspaper or cardboard around (as best you can) circling the plants you have planted. Then, hopefully, you've got some good OM to start with and put that on top. Dried leaves is best for the very top, kind of looks better and also looks like regular mulch. Coffee grounds from Starbucks works as a start also but watch how much since if they are very thick, they can repel water. Though some think of this as a science, I don't. Seems like when I am building a new garden and don't plan to till, I always make some decisions "on the fly" depending on how much OM I have and how muddy (or dry and hard) the holes for planting turn out to be, etc....See MoreLasagna gardebning for a newbie
Comments (2)The links are just spam. This site doesn't monitor that junk very well. Are the beds you have raised beds, or flat, ground-level beds? If they're raised, it's probably because of the clay. The first thing to do is to have your soil tested (about $10), and see what you're dealing with. There's clay soil and there's awful clay soil. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Service/Master Gardener and ask who does it near you. Your CES is at Purdue: http://www.hort.purdue.edu/mg/ Contact info is at the very bottom of the page. Below is a link on how to collect a soil sample. If you don't do it right, it can throw off the results. Use a new metal or clean plastic trowel for collection. A rusty tool will contaminate the sample. If you are growing organically, write ORGANIC on the form that goes with the soil sample, or they'll give you chemical farming info. The test results are usually mailed to you, with recommendations. If you don't understand it, call the lab and ask, or your Master Gardener at CES. If you do mulching (aka lasagna gardening), leave a gap around the plant stem or trunk. Here is a link that might be useful: How to collect a soil sample...See MoreLasagna gardening for a newbie
Comments (2)Welcome to gardening and these forums! Instead of constantly fighting with the weeds in the "really overgrown beds," it would be best to get started smothering them with lots of thick layers of cardboard, or even plastic, and something to hold it down when the wind blows, like rocks. You don't really want to weed-wack poison ivy at all anyway. I wouldn't recommend any further amendments until you know the already-growing ivy and thistles are gone for good. Chemicals do not usually kill thistles or english ivy unless you use really nasty stuff and/or apply it multiple times, so I wouldn't bother. You'll need to be vigilant about sprouts of new weeds for a few years in all of the beds because it sounds like many weed seeds have been produced and allowed to fall right in the yard. Once those have all sprouted, you'll only have a normal amount of weed seeds brought in by birds and wind. The distinction of "lasagna" vs. "amending soil" is a barrier of usually newspaper or cardboard that is placed at the bottom to smother existing weeds - but not weeds as tough as ivies and thistles. It's not usually practical or necessary around existing plantings. All you need to do in the area with roses & butterfly bushes is amend the soil by adding some compost and mulch once or twice a year. Weeds will still show up but will be easy to pull. Weeding is much easier if it is part of what you do while admiring your flowers. When you let it go to the point where you realize "I need to go pull weeds," it's really un-fun and time-consuming. You can also pile some leaves in the area (as long as they aren't mostly oak leaves) to encourage worms to take-up residence. Mother nature, with the help of worms and microbes, will redistribute nutrients from decomposing organic material at the surface into the soil where it can be used by the roots. Good soil structure takes years to develop and should not be disturbed except when you need to dig a hole for a new plant. The next time you dig a planting hole, use a dandelion fork or screwdriver to poke little holes at the bottom of the big hole. By just adding 4" of finely shredded hardwood mulch to heavy clay soil, it will be noticeably improved by next spring, and it will get darker, richer, with more improved tilth and humus every year as long as you keep adding compost and mulch to maintain the top layer. Poison ivy (or oak or sumac) is a specialty weed in that the oil (urishiol) that gives people a rash does not die when the plant is killed. All parts: dead leaves, stems, and roots remain poisonous until it is decomposed. Urishiol can also retain its' potency for a long time on objects that have touched poison ivy. You should NEVER BURN POISON IVY (or oak or sumac) because the urishiol can become airborne and inhaled. It should be sealed in a plastic bag and sent to the landfill, not put with other yard waste where it might get included in municipal mulch. If you have a lot of......See More- cooper8828 thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
cooper8828
6 years ago- cooper8828 thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
cooper8828
6 years agocooper8828
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6 years ago
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