No HVAC tech here just a homeowner. I have an older home that was designed for heat and AC but it was made with all supplies in the floors except in the living room where they are in opposite walls near the floor. I would rather have cold air from the ceiling and hot air from the floor. Since you don't have to worry about heating from these vents I would try to get them from the ceiling. That said my system works well. I think the thing with it is that there are air return ducts in every room(none in the bathroom) and in each hallway on each floor of my house. The rooms on the 2nd and 3rd floors have the returns near the ceiling and all large rooms have more than one return; one in the wall near the floor, the other in the wall near the ceiling. Also from what I can see and what my neighbors say, is that the supply ducts are large which allows plenty of air flow. The outlets from the floor throw the air directly up into the room, not from side to side. This works well in the summer and winter. In the winter the living room that has the outlets in the wall blow the air in front of and across the outer wall which contains floor to ceiling(13FT) windows and french doors. In the summer I place directional louvers over these which direct the cold air up into the room. Even though this works If I had a choice I still would rather have that cold air coming from the ceiling.

I've pulled knockouts in with self-tapping screws and a small pry bar. It's a pain, and downright hazardous when you're trying to remove a top KO on a panel with the hot lugs at the top. If this were a main you might CAREFULLY stick a couple layers of electrical tape over the hot lugs and wires before you start. However, since this is a subpanel, you can kill all the power to it - a HUGE advantage.

Len, funny you should say that. I don't know why but it reminded me of a couple of stories I have heard about the South West of WA... Apparently there are some large black cats loose in the forests down there. They think maybe they're Pumas. Of course it's mostly urban legend but my Brother in law who works on Vineyards in the area swears he heard them roaring a few nights in a row and farmers have reported they've found young cattle with their heads almost severed. Then there are the claw marks in the trees. Some of these stories go back 15 years I believe and I don't think anyone can explain where they came from. I have heard a theory that they escaped from the circus when their trailer came open in a car accident... but I think it's just a theory... Then there is the mystereous little tassie tiger like animal that has been seen almost a dozen times (including by me once) around Yalgorup National Park. Funny looking thing it is, the size and shape of a small/medium dog, wirey looking and with a cat like face. Kind of half way between a cat and a fox, with stripes of course! Weird little animal. i wonder if they'll be classed as native species and protected also?? Interesting! Ange

We are still in the process of installing our Klearvue kitchen. Please take careful note of Mike T’s advice/instruction! I read a similar review on Reddit and followed that advice. We’re very happy with our install! Since we’ve been working on the entire house, the kitchen work was paused after the cabinets/counters/sink were installed. Here’s our experience, I’ll either add photos or post again with photos: Design software is clunky on my iPad—much easier having the department manager draw up our plans. That had the added benefit of getting multiple copies of the plans printed and prices determined. Order with the store rebate—this has helped with additional purchases! We picked up our order in chunks—we had it divided/split into island and perimeter cabinets. I checked off each item as it came inside. If there was no damage to the box, there was likely no damage to the cabinet. Damage was minimal, nearly non-existent. We had to exchange a box and a couple small things. Our Menard’s (KC metro) does NOT charge a restocking fee on Klearvue. Installing 40” wall cabinets were physically difficult—but it still went pretty quick. The base cabs were easier to position and we had 2 pantry cabinets to assemble. They were hard to get into position because of their size. I did the drawer and door assembly and added reinforcement as Mike T suggested. Extra screws in the back of drawers, extra plastic clippy things at the front of drawers, plus a painted 1”x2” under our two 30” and 36” shelves. If there’s a possible stress point, reinforce! I painted the island! So, this was a HUGE cause of our delay. Being a perfectionist and painting that cabinetry, slowed us down! It came our lovely, I recently decided to add satin water-based poly on the painted surfaces after trying it on the end panels. The finish now more closely matches our other Strömma fronts. I’ll add an ”in process” photo of some of the painted fronts. 36” sink base…This is great, but fitting the drawer for it is tough and time-consuming. We need to notch the back of the drawer for the garbage disposer that couldn’t go further back and is slightly low. I think I’ll like the drawer (we have no children that will try to ride on it!) I also plan to make the stationery top panel a tip-out. Still figuring that out—I’m used to converting these, not taking an unattched 36” piece and making it work. We customized a ”blind corner” box to work better with narrow (15” deep) cabinets abutting it. We were able to cut-out part of the exposed front and add another 15” door. It now appears to only have a narrow filler panel instead a 20” solid panel. I can also reach in the small ”blind” area easily. We’ve not had any problems due to quality issues. Yes, its tedious! Adding the colored tape to the front of all the box edges is not very fun, but it looks great. Painting the tape for the island install was pretty un-fun…but do-able. None of our problems would have been solved by using Ikea products.