Your guy behind the counter is either ignorant, uninformed, or just bullsh*tting you. If you do remove the points and the pushrod, then you do need to plug the hole or oil will come up and go all over the back side of the flywheel. However, just leave the points in place and don't bother removing flywheel. Cut the lead going into the point cover as close as possible behind the flywheel, and then don't worry about it. Also, price of $54 is pretty stiff. List price should be about $42 and aftermarket and OEM internet suppliers range from $30 to $40. Correct p/n is 397358 for 130000 series vertical and horizontal engine. Even less expensive is to reuse your own coil and fit a B&S module for about $15 p/n 394970. A little more work, but saves money.

I did some Googling and found the following suggestion at TechSupport Forum. Scroll down the page to see all entries and feedback. Hope this helps. Brother Laser Printers - Error Message "Toner Life End" Brother Laser Printers Error Message "Toner Life End" MFC-7440N MFC-8460N. Brother suggest taking the unit to a service center. Message doesn't go even after replacing BOTH Toner & Drum. Try this Open door press Clear/Back key press *00 press OK Do not choose anything for drum replacement. When drum replacement menu comes up, press the * and then 00, then press OK. This might well work for other Brother Laser Printers too Here is a link that might be useful: TechSupport Forum

Hey tigerdunes, I agree - getting a breaker installed properly and up to code is priority, so whatever path I take that will have to be part of it. I have Washington Gas and NOVEC Electric. Gas is First 25 therms 47.91â Next 100 therms 30.58â Over 125 therms 25.73â Gas bill for last month TOTAL THERMS (TH) USED 122.8 25.0 TH @ $.4796 $11.99 97.8 TH @ $.3063 $29.96 ALL APPLICABLE RIDERS $3.13 SYSTEM CHARGE $11.25 PGC @ $.5026 $61.72 NATURAL GAS SUPPLY SERVICE LOCAL UTILITY TAX $3.00 ST.& LOCAL CONSUMPTION TAX $2.29 TOTAL GAS CHARGES $123.34 IâÂÂve only been here since September 2011, but IâÂÂve typically averaged 125-130 for gas in the winter, 30-50 in the summer and anywhere from 60-85 in the fall. I donâÂÂt have the NOVEC rates handy at the moment, but I average $50-$70 most months and anywhere between $110-$160 in the summer. I believe I'm working with the original boiler for my baseboard radiant heating by the way. The costs weren't ridiculously high as you can see, but I am worried that it could crap out on me any winter now, which is why I was considering the heat pump to potentially help extend its life by offsetting the amount it had to work at all temperatures. Company A said the addition of a heat pump would probably add around $600-700 whereas Company B said that the addition of a heat pump would add $1,175. The heat pump coupled with the new electric work would be way past my budget, but if it saves me an additioanl $5-6k on paying for a new boiler next year while also dropping some monthly costs, perhaps it's worth it? Are the original quotes and the additional heat pump expenses in line for the DC Metro area (or in general), in your opinion? Thanks again for your help!

Sorry, I get so much to reply to I don't usually get back to these posts. You need to e-mail me because I may never see your replies & questions. If my memory is correct, around 35 years ago occassionally the compressors had higher BTUH ratings than the condensing units. Laxer49 I just checked your page & my birthday is on Dec 8th, too, I will be 73. Those 10-SEER condensers' used to do real well. If the E-Coil has a leak it should be replaced anyway. Laxer49, If it were me, I would put a New half ton larger BTUH rated Coil in there with a TXV refrigerant control. If you can get a real good deal on a new 10-SEER with that combination & the correct tightly sealed ducts & airflow it should cool okay in the hottest weather. If you want the most cost-effective payback I would do all I could to reduce the radiant & other heat gain as the insulation will also reduce the heating bills. The Installation is the most important thing, it has to be done right! Read & learn allyou can. Funkeruski, I suppose they replaced the evaporator with a matching TXV controlled coil? Everything has to be performed just right & even then if it is real hot & the indoor load is also heavy it may not equal the old unit which would have a larger BTUH capacity compressor on that 4-ton condenser. Those high SEER tests are performed under rather light load conditions. The SEER of a system is determined by multiplying the steady state energy efficiency ratio (EER) measured at conditions of 82°F Outdoor Temperature, 80°F Dry Bulb and 67°F Wet Bulb (near 50%RH) indoor entering air temperature by the Part Load Factor (PLF) of the system. (The PLF is supplied by the government.) IMO, they ought to be tested at 95 or 100-F outdoor temperature. Which SEER do you think will perform better at 100-F plus ambient temperatures, the one with the larger capacity compressor or the smaller one? You could slow the blower CFM down to keep the suction pressure & E-Coil temp somewhat lower, but that also drops sensible capacity some. At 82-F outdoors, the 15 should do real well against the 10. Just my viewpoint. udarrell _ 2007 Here is a link that might be useful: udarrell.com