Thanks, that pretty much completes the picture for me. Your soil is pretty low in clay and has a low cation exchange capacity. That means it will tend to loose nutrient elements / minerals rather easily. Don't be surprised if you find yourself fighting a persistent battle against low pH. Here's one more reference, from the Aggies on soil pH and lime - it's the one I was looking for earlier had trouble finding it. I believe it provides the clearest explanation out there on the proper use of lime. Acidic soils are unusual in TX, except for the eastern side next to LA, which is where this article comes from. The long-term solution for your low CEC silty soil is to build soil organic matter, but even that may be a bit of a struggle. On building soil OM be cognizant of what you're adding and what it brings as nutrients, especially P. But your soil will be more forgiving than most. You have some freedom that I don't have on heavy, fine-textured clay. I suspect you're partially right about the wx effect on your plants, but also suspect that on your legumes pH played a significant role as well. We had the cold spring, with frosts and freezing temps right through 3/25 - about 3 weeks past statistical norms. I put up a row cover in early March and kept it there until 3/27. LA had he rains that we didn't get. I think once you get your pH near 6.5 you'll be doing fine. Building soil OM will help stabilize everything and make it easier to maintain mineral levels, and in turn pH. BTW, with that acidic soil you're in great shape for potatoes (I can't even think about them), and maybe blueberries and other acid loving crops. You might want to think about reserving some space to allow to remain on the acid side for some "specialty crops".

Mamabear, I'll gladly be your enabler. I fell in love with Super White here on GW. When we went to look at slabs at the fabricator our builder used, I didn't hold out much hope that I would find any slabs so never mentioned Super White to DH. As we were walking through the yard, DH was ahead of me. I found him stopped in front of a lot of SW. I couldn't have asked for a better reaction from him. We tagged 3 slabs and took loads of pictures. I committed the GW sin of not obtaining a sample so no testing was done. I was just excited to have found this amazing stone and that DH was totally on board with it. Much drama occured after templating that I won't go into, but ultimately, we ended up with gorgeous countertops in our kitchen, master bath and half bath. We had the fabricator apply a sealer that supposedly would protect it for 10 years. One year after moving into our new home, I have experienced no staining or etching. I'm not an obsessive housekeeper, nor is DH who is home during the day while I work. I do have some small pieces now that I could test, but I've chosen not to. Don't want to jinx my good fortune. Good luck with your decision. I'm certainly happy with mine.

My sealed Taj M quartzite has seen a lot (messy cook here). The only situation which gave me pause was a blue ink stain from a glass bottom coated with the ink. Probably sat there two hours before anyone thought to remove the glass from the mudroom counter. A little barkeeper lifted it up where soap sponge failed. Hooray. Love the stuff. Still running my hands across the surface two years in...

There's a couple of things in the OP's first post that prompt some clarification as the terminology used can certainly lead to some serious misunderstanding. First, the statement "test pH for free, turns out 2 out of 3 areas were normal" asks the question of what is "normal" when it comes to pH. There is no such thing as a "normal" pH - it is what it is. But there is such a thing as a "preferred" soil pH and that preferred pH for the vast majority of plants is in the range of 6.0 to 7.0. The second statement: "I read that it's not that simple and you should instead get a soil test because something in your soil is skewing that pH" also indicates that some misinformation is being gathered or absorbed. pH is seldom "skewed" by soil conditions unless the soil has been highly worked/amended/fertilized. And I would never consider a pH of 6.0 to be particularly skewed one way or the other. pH of soil is a natural reflection of the indigenous soil qualities. If the underlying mineral content of the indigenous (native) soil is based on acidic rock material (e.g. granite), then the soil pH tends to be acidic. If the mineral content is derived from more alkaline rock material (e.g. limestone), then the soil pH will be higher - more on the neutral to alkaline side. Annual rainfall levels factor in as well - areas with heavier rainfall will tend towards more acidic conditions; more arid areas tend towards the more alkaline conditions. The combination of the underlying mineral content of the soil and the amount of annual rainfall are the primary determining factors of a soil's pH. Changing a soil pH to any significant degree is extremely difficult to accomplish and will be a temporary fix at best. Many soils have a buffering capacity that resist significant pH changes and all will eventually return to their indigenous pH unless amending to alter is continuous. Additions of organic matter to any soil will help to neutralize pH to some extent but don't expect big changes. If you are just planting perennials and shrubs and not anything demanding very specific pH conditions, then I wouldn't even bother with the lime for the 6.0 area (can't say about the "normal" areas, as we have no idea what that means). A pH of 6.0 is a perfectly acceptable level for a huge range of plants. If it starts dropping much below 6.0 or is much above 7.0, then you might want to amend to alter as best you can (with lime to raise; sulfur to lower). But otherwise, you really do not need to do anything. Except add organic matter, which is good for any soil.