There are possibly two varieties of zoysia that handle shade. They might be the same variety discovered by different researchers - who knows? One is called Shadow Turf. I've seen it growing under a very dense English walnut tree. Here is a pic I took of it. This lawn was blocked by the house to the east, the walnut tree right overhead, and a large tree to the west across the street. If any of it got more than 2 hours of direct sunlight I'd be surprised. It had been installed with 1-inch plugs about 18 months prior. The uneven area in the center of the picture is the only spot where it had not completely filled in. The 1-inch plugs had grown to 12 inch patches but they had not knit together yet. Otherwise the grass was very dense. Even if it had been growing in full sun I would have called it dense. I did an experiment with Shadow Turf and was not thrilled with it. It is just about as aggressive as bermuda and much less tolerant of the heat. I guess it goes dormant in the heat. It certainly does come back, though. In all fairness, the location is isolated and it must get special treatment. I was not home to water as needed so it looked dead during most of our recent 2-year long drought. My wife is going to try to pull it out this year. I'll be reporting on the success of that project later. I forget the name of the other variety of shade tolerant zoysia. I'm thinking it is called Diamond but could be very wrong. It is used on golf courses in the east.

So I take it that if the fescue is dead, then its dead. I can't revive it without re-seeding, correct? Bah. Yep when it is dead it is done and has to be reseeded. Bermuda on the other hand goes dormant when it does not receive enough water, and comes back with water. However it will not wait forever and will also eventually die. Question about bermuda - the bermuda I've seen around Las Vegas needs to be trimmed very short. Its almost like a carpet. I have doubts as to whether my mower can actually mow that short. Yes Bermuda is kept very short. That is why I mentioned it has to be mowed at least twice a week if irrigated and fed. However not all Bermuda grass is alike as their are many varieties all requiring different maintenance techniques. 1. Most of the common types from seed are used for pasture hay and erosion control and those are not mowed but rather cut once or twice a year to harvest hay. They are rarely ever fertilized except once in the spring and never irrigated. Not something you would want for a turf grass 2. Improved common seeded types for turf grass and the quality varies quite a bit in leaf size and cutting height. Some like Princess (aka P77) are near golf coarse quality requiring to be kept very short of 1 inch or less, fertilizing every 30 days during growing season, regular irrigation to maintain color. The there are several varieties which are medium quality than can be maintained around 1 to 2 inches which is probable the best fit for you. They still require frequent fertilizing and irrigation to maintain color, but you can have a decent looking stand using a push mower set for 1-1/2 inches. 3. Then there are the hybrids varieties. These are from sod, plug, or sprigs only. No seed available for hybrids. These are the high quality varities and they fall into two classes semi-dwarf, and dwarf. I will not go into dwarf varieties because they are stickily professional care used for golf greens and very wealthy people who have full time pros maintaining it. What you likely see around town and on all golf coarse fairways and tee boxes is a semi-dwarf hybrid variety. The two most common varieties used and widely grown by sod farms is Tifway-I (aka 419), and TifSport. In most states where Bermuda grass is grown Tifway-I is the default choice of all builders and landscapers. TifSport is gaining popularity as it is a little finer grain, denser, and better cold tolerance than Tifway-I. Either way they are both fairly high input grasses and best maintained at 1-inch or less with a reel type mower. However many and I would say most maintain them with a rotary mower between 1 and 2 inches. However those that do use a rotary mower do so because that came with there home and they just do not know better. It works, but not optimal. As to watering I split a different way than David recommends. Normally I would agree once a week with a deep soaking is the best method as a rule of thumb. But not for out here. Unless you are blessed and top soil was shipped in to your yard, or in a flood plain where soil is carried in from flooding, you do not have soil. You have rubble and coarse granite/quarts sand eroded from the surrounding mountains of LV. There is nothing in it to hold water and coupled with bone dry 10% or less humidity and searing temps you have to water much more frequently than most folks do. In summer once a day is the normal practice out here. At least in Prescott and Phoenix it is. Maybe Vegas is different, but I doubt it as the soil and climate are very much alike except Vegas is a little cooler than Phoenix. You guys only get up to 110, where Phoenix 115 is long sleeve shirt weather in summer. Now with that said I can say you are watering too frequently at 3 times a day for a few minutes each time. To be honest I do not know exactly what to recommend, other than when you do water, do so very early in the morning, and only once in a day. I imagine during cooler months once about every 3 or 4 days. During the blistering summer days it will take watering every day in the mornings. A lot is going to depend on which grass type you choose and actual soil conditions. I suggest you go around to a few nurseries and landscape companies to seek advice, maybe even visit a golf course and talk to a supt. You should be able to get a pretty good idea if you do that. Or if you have a neighbor with an impressive yard, stop by and ask them as most people will be flattered and tell you exactly what they do unless they pay someone to do it for them. I know from visiting Vegas often and now living in AZ, yards are rare even in the upper class neighborhoods. Just takes too much WATER to maintain them. That is why I mention Buffalo grass to be considered.

The soil under large trees is often too dry to grow grass due to the sheltering aspect and also because trees take all the moisture to grow. The soil is also often devoid of nutrients because the trees have taken it over years. One can replace the soil as much as possible and water but it's a continuing problem. I have an island of spruce, fir, and aspen in my front yard and have amended the soil, planted shade plants on the north side and perennial ornamental grasses on the south side. Not a perfect solution but easier than trying to grow lawn grasses in a difficult situation. Every fall I rake the available leaves into that area and continue to amend the soil with whatever I can get and water as necessary.

Growing tomato's here is a bit different than in other areas of the country due to the sun intensity and heat. Plant tomato's as early as possible but you must also watch over early "starts" due to the cold weather than can still arrive in Feb & sometimes early March. They need protection from evening temps. Star has tomato protection from cold weather. Tomato's will grow, should flower and produce fruit all Spring long especially if any of the many cherry or patio tomato's are grown, also medium size tomato's such as Celebrity or Early Girl are easier to bring to maturity. Beef Steaks, large tomato's are not nearly as easy. When the temps go above 90* the tomato's will no longer set blossoms, therefore not tomato's. If left in the intense summer sun, the plants will often dry up and die. Many people have better luck growing their vegetables under shade cloth here through the summer and get good results. Also tomato's can be planted in containers, once over 90*, cut the tomato's back by half, place them in the shade, continue to water and bring them out again at the end of Sept. into the sun. The plants will begin flowering and developing tomato's. You may have tomato's (though green) up to Nov or Dec. Watch for frost temps. and pick any tomato's left on the plants, place them in paper bags to ripen. If you feel that you are not getting good pollination, you can take a small stick and shake the plants a bit. You should be able to see pollen being released so that you can be assured your plants are getting the necessary pollination. Of course good fertilization every 6 weeks is advisable whether regular or organic. Growing tomato's here is a bit different than in other areas of the country due to the sun intensity and heat. Plant tomato's as early as possible but you must also watch over early "starts" due to the cold weather than can still arrive in Feb & sometimes early March. They need protection from evening temps. Star has tomato protection from cold weather. Tomato's will grow, should flower and produce fruit all Spring long especially if any of the many cherry or patio tomato's are grown, also medium size tomato's such as Celebrity or Early Girl are easier to bring to maturity. Beef Steaks, large tomato's are not nearly as easy. When the temps go above 90* the tomato's will no longer set blossoms, therefore not tomato's. If left in the intense summer sun, the plants will often dry up and die. Many people have better luck growing their vegetables under shade cloth here through the summer and get good results. Also tomato's can be planted in containers, once over 90*, cut the tomato's back by half, place them in the shade, continue to water and bring them out again at the end of Sept. into the sun. The plants will begin flowering and developing tomato's. You may have tomato's (though green) up to Nov or Dec. Watch for frost temps. and pick any tomato's left on the plants, place them in paper bags to ripen. If you feel that you are not getting good pollination, you can take a small stick and shake the plants a bit. You should be able to see pollen being released so that you can be assured your plants are getting the necessary pollination. Of course good fertilization every 6 weeks is advisable whether regular or organic.