Well, timing is rough, for sure, and avocados are extremely sensitive about root disturbance. First off, apply some wood chip mulch under the tree, but keeping it away from the trunk by about 6 inches. If leaves fall, leave them under the tree, do not remove them. Be sure the tree stays watered. Whitewash the trunk with flat latex house pain cut in 1/2 with water. You can also try applying transplant fertilizer (B vitamins) to the roots to help with transplant shock. Can't hurt. Definitely keep the tree shaded. When you plant an avocado tree, the best way to remove it from the pot is to lay it on it's side, and carefully pull the pot away from the rootball without yanking on the trunk. Never carry the tree by its trunk. Then, carefully put the rootball in the hole by holding the rootball, and not the trunk so you don't break off the feeder roots. You may have some leaf fall, but keep the soil moist through our next little heat wave, and hopefully it will revive itself. Patty S.

Avocados are not "same hole" trees like stone fruits. Think of them as the "SUV's of the garden", lol! Even more "compact" avocados are only relatively compact (as opposed to ginormous non-compact avocado varieties). They need their own space. A slope is ideal, as they don't like to sit in standing water, but DO need lots of water, even more than citrus. Backfilling a hole just creates a "bathtub" effect in clay soil. The current line of thinking with trees is NOT to amend the hole, but to top dress with compost and other soil amendments. With clay you would want to plant on a mound to help facilitate drainage. You're going to want to monitor your soil moisture about 18" down to make sure you're not creating a water logged environment. I would try to move the the Reed, but warning - avocados do not at all like their roots disturbed, so this very well may spell the demise of the Reed, as may also upset the Gem. Always leave their fallen leaves underneath as this is something the feeder roots like and actually require. Drip emitters are fine, just make sure they do give a good soaking, and the well should be dug out to at least the drip line (edge of the canopy) where the feeder roots reside, just make sure that you're not creating too wet an environment for them. Drip emitters come in varying gph outputs, so you can get a very large volume of water to a tree with drip emitters. I have two per avocado, and have actually had to dial them down a bit. And your trees are still pretty young to bear fruit, not to worry. It can take up to 5 years for an avocado to become established enough to bear fruit. I have a Lamb Haas that is full of fruit in it's second year with me, which was shocking. All my other avos are still barren. Who suggested to you to plant these two trees in the same hole, anyway? Patty S.

I wish you luck ! Planting avocado trees from 3 ft tall specimens in 3 gal pots from Lowes is stressful enough. But trying to grow them from seed ? With only one type ? Why the torment ? I bought and planted in the ground in February, here in zone 10a, in SW Fla, one Hass and one Bacon avocado tree.Type A and B,..trying to give them the best chance. They are now a spindly 4 ft tall with mucho fresh, vibrant looking leaves sprouting, The Bacon has about 10 golf ball sized fruit that are just nice to look at,..have no hopes of harvesting anything however,..this year ! But in another 3 years or so,..who knows ? If you are serious about harvesting these luscious fruits in your lifetime, I suggest you get serious. Whatever your plans for the future are, I wish you luck !

Mexicola is dark skinned also Naomi