I'm confused. In the pic, I saw a plant part-way through a layering. Is the layer now complete, the new tree growing in it's new home, and exhibiting sufficient vitality & root growth you think it's necessary to cut back the roots; or, are you considering a full repot on the parent tree while the layering is still under way? (bad idea) I think a drop or two of Superthrive in the water used to moisten the layering medium would have been helpful, but I don't think that ongoing treatments using it as a 'tonic' are yielding any results (probably not hurting anything either, so I'm not suggesting that you stop using it if you feel it's helping). Also, if you're using MG 24-8-16, you probably don't need the Fe supplement. If your tree is experiencing an actual Fe deficiency, it's a pH issue (too high). There is ample Fe in the MG to satisfy your plant. A little vinegar in the irrigation water will make what is already there available to the plant w/o risking a problem with the Fe you're adding interfering with Mn uptake. Al

Shoaib - I think as a simple answer to your question - nurseries often opt for specific techniques to increase production of saleable product from limited quantities of scion stock, which also gives the benefit of being able to choose to use a variety of seedling rootstocks that are targeted to work well in different planting sites/conditions. So you can create many new trees to sell by grafting the buds from a single larger branch onto many rootstocks versus air-layering a single branch to create only one new tree. I.e., a typical sized 12" - 18" cutting might have 6 - 8 good buds (more or less) on it to "make" 6 - 8 new trees vs only getting 1 tree from the same-size rooted branch that was air-layered. Even if you air-layer multiple branches from a large tree to make several new trees, you are reducing your future stock from that tree many-fold due to eventual removal of those branches.

Over a period of many years I have tried a variety of methods to get, in plain words me more fig trees to give away to friends and people I meet that show an interest in growing them. The method that worked well for me is the same as Bass stated by just placing a cutting into a good quality potting soil in a small container with good drainage holes provided. I know over the years that I given out over 150 trees using that method but for some reason this year has been a bummer. The cuttings will not root for me. I'm placing the blame on the weather conditions this year because I keep the potted cuttings on my southern facing covered patio's brick wall. There they get the warmth from the southern facing wall and not direct sunlight but lately we have not had much sun and the days we did get sun the temps where really up there during the day and down during the nights.. I water them so they never dry out. I've done new wood cuttings with just as much success as I did using last years wood until this year. That's why my interest in air layering question asked to make sure I have the information to get it done correctly and have results in the end. I have three people waiting for trees. I wonder if I charged for the trees if anyone would want them. I do it for a hobby and I just can't get myself to throw away any branch I cut from my olive, lemon, bay leaf and fig trees. I just have to pot them up to try and get them growing. I usually give the people I give a tree of any variety I have printed up growing instructions epically if they live in our area where the best method to grow them is in containers and store the covered in a garage or shed during the winter months. Bass I live about 20 miles northwest of Allentown, PA. The town is called Lehighton. Lou NE. PA

While cutting off the last flush will most of the time rush a new flush, Thats not what I do. I live in Kansas (Zone 5) and basically use what xerophyte said. Using this method I get two and somethimes even three flushes on my Kings. With my Taitungensis & Cycas Wilailik I get for all practicle purposes a continuous flush where there are new leafs coming up constantly. What I do is keep soil warm, water every 3 days, and then I put 2-3 year old cow manure on them once a month. The manure, any local farmer would be very happy to allow you to scoop a 5 gallon bucket out of his calf pins. I am lucky enough to have my grand father being a Dairy Farmer so it's easy for me, but ANY farmer will be happy to allow you to have some. I also keep them in the garage in the Winter and only water once halfway thru Winter. Once it gets constant 60's for highs I put them out. Once the soil warms up, you will have a very early flush and improve your chances of a second flush late in the Summer/early Fall. Listen to xerophyte as he/she REALLY knows about Cycads/Dioons.