Succulent & cacti landscape medium recipe for W. Central, FL
jmthompson8
7 years ago
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Crenda 10A SW FL
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention XIII
Comments (152)Hello Al - thanks again for all of your posts and the fruits of your research. I am growing four heirloom tomato plants in containers using your 5-1-1 mix. Here in Raleigh the closest thing I could find to pine bark fines was a product by Timberline called "Soil Conditioner" which seems to be close to the ideal size. But I wanted to ask you two questions, which I hope you have the time to answer (and patience, if you've already answered them - I looked and could not find your thoughts on these): 1. I used a run of the mill mulch to top off my 5-1-1 mixes in the pots and to my dismay discovered the mulch was full of fungus gnats. I will try Gnatrol to get rid of them, but it brings up my question - what do you use for mulch for the 5-1-1? Maybe pine bark nuggets instead of this buggy shredded hardwood I'm using? (large size might help to avoid insect eggs or other stuff hiding inside?) Or do you not mulch? 2. And secondly, what do you use for day to day pest control? I'm spraying insecticidal soap almost daily to kill the whiteflies/thrips/aphids that I see on the leaves but I wonder if there's anything better I can do instead of using the toxic stuff (Sevin, etc). Thanks!...See MoreContainer Soils - Water Movement & Retention XIV
Comments (164)Thanks for the kind words, B&C. In Mississippi, Memorial day would be a good target date for repotting the fig. Hibiscus need an annual repot. Do that toward the end of March, before it starts growing in earnest. Apple and most deciduous trees should be repotted just before or at the onset of spring budswell. Cactus - ask the cactus experts at the cacti/succulents forum. Desert rose - in Mississippi - June Umbrella plant - June There are ways to mechanically limit the amount of perched water a planting will hold, even if you're using a very water-retentive medium. Eliminating all or most of the perched water allows the grower to use media that would otherwise be or border on the edge of unusable. This outlines ways to cope with heavy (water-retentive) media Another effective way of dealing with media that hold too much water is through the use of ballast. You can read more about that technique here: Ballast ..... For now, checking your planting's moisture level regularly with a 'tell' will make a difference in your plant's appearance and level of vitality. Here's something I wrote about that: Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See Moregrowing succulents in humid louisiana...help!
Comments (78)Yea. I decided to put them all in pots and I moved them to the front of my house which faces south. Lots more sun. I'm still worried about them getting sunburned. Succulents at the local nursery here are all out in the sun and are doing just fine. When I put mine in the sun they start to get spots on them. I assume that they aren't used to it yet. So I guess we will just see....See MoreHi! New to the Forum!
Comments (18)Hi and Welcome Jodi, I've been around (on and off) since September 2001. I agree with Norma... I'm also not sure there are any "Experts" per se, but there are definitely some that really know what they're talking about ;-) I haven't met a cactus I didn't like. The bigger or longer the spines, the more I like it! I hope you discover more than just "Holiday" cactus to enjoy as there are many others that aren't so prickly... Epiphyllums for one. If you like the flowers on the "Holiday" cacti, you'll LOVE the ones from Epis'. http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=epiphyllum&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi There's also some with nice soft spines that won't really harm you... My favorite has always been the "Dog Tail" Cactus (selenicereus testudo). I also grow Orchids and Bonsais. If I had a large property and House still, I'd also grow Bamboo and raise Tropical Fish (probably salt) So, Norma, do you think that's all true about how we all learned? My Grandmother had every windowsill in the house covered in plants! But it was my Grandfather that bought me my first fishtank and my dad that fostered my interest in Tropical Fish. But I was adopted and when I found my Biological Family a few years back, it seems My Maternal Grandfather was Also a collector and even had a Farm. My Paternal Side of the family was part Native American (Mohawk) and all had an affinity for Nature of all kinds, (especially edible and medicinal local plants, which I too was always interested in). So, is it nurture or just Nature? And no, a Butterfly can not repair it's wing and usually only lives a few days to weeks, just long enough to breed. The Monarch does Migrate to some place in Mexico I believe, to spend the winter. But I believe that's the second generation of the year that does. I believe when they return to their homelands in spring, their offspring will just live long enough to give birth to THAT years Migrators and then die, never getting the Mexican Vacation :-)...See Morejmthompson8
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7 years agoErin
7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
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7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoErin
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7 years ago
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