hi there - so i've been lurking to wait for more info and pics of your plants. actually, they seem to look pretty good, what are the indicators that they're not doing well - the fact that they're not growing quickly? generally succulents will be slow growers, especially if they're not getting a lot of sunlight. your herbs are growing quickly because a) herbs (and it seems lots of leafy plants) grow quickly in general and b) they're outside getting a lot of sun. just reiterating what everyone else has said, but i definitely would not water them at the same rate as the herbs. Also, the burrito tail, and any succulent that has particularly fat and juicy leaves will need less water than other succulents (elephant snack) because they are retaining a lot more water in those plump leaves. finally, in general, while the container size might not seem large, I think people are just wondering about the soil ratio - basically, if there is too much soil (due to not enough of a gritty mix, or due to a too-large pot and etc), then water stays in there longer than it takes for the roots to take them in, which then causes root rot. One thing about the pots (which are super cute btw) is that even though the pots have drainage holes, the way they are constructed (tall with a smaller opening) means less top surface area, which means slower rate of moisture evaporation, and so the soil will stay wetter for longer. anyway, all this just to say: water them a little less, like maybe just once every 2 weeks, and the watering doesn't have to be a total drench. if water is not coming out of the hole, that's ok! definitely if you can "let them out" and sit in the sun sometimes, i am sure they'd appreciate that. see how that goes before you go crazy trying to mix up the soil and disturb your plants. definitely if you figure out how to create your gritty mix then by all means do, but for now, yeah, less water and a some more sun. also, sorry for being wordy - not trying to be too technical, but i just tend to like understanding reasons for why things work the way they do.

megpi I do that all the time, have done it for years for the same reason -- not enough room with heat and lights after they're potted up to bigger containers. As soon as my tomato seedlings sprout, before they develop their first set of true leaves, I put them outside in the sun when temps reach 55-60 and continue to do that until they're ready to go in the ground. It's a loooonng hardening off process! If they've already developed true leaves by the time the weather gets that warm, I put them outside in the shade on warm days but not in direct sunlight. They receive many more lumens of light in shade than they do under my fluorescent lights. Then about a week before planting them, I gradually expose these to direct sunlight, starting with about 15 minutes and adding another half hour each day. They need the rest of the hardening off process for sun exposure, even if they've been outside in breezes and receiving all that diffused light! Direct sunlight can sunburn unhardened off plants that haven't been gradually exposed, even kill them under some circumstances. I also do this with my pepper plants but don't put them out unless the temps reach 65 and above since they're tenderer than tomato plants. Anyway, I think you're good to go with your plan if you just keep some principles about hardening plants off in mind. I've posted the link below in another thread, but it's the best explanation I've ever read about the physiological changes that must occur during the hardening off process if your plants are to survive, so I'll post it again! Here is a link that might be useful: Hardening off transplants

PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet.

It does look like a Crassula (jade) to me. It is etiolated and needs more light than what you have been providing. Just because It receives light from "two sides", does not mean it is getting enough light. Factors such as whether the light is obstructed or unobstructed, distance from both light sources, season, and direction those windows face have a great impact on the intensity of the light received. Can't tell from the photo what the media is like. Personally, I'd plan on subjecting it to major "whackage", but it would be nice to have a bit more info on the aforementioned items first.