Not to worry Mari. As others have said tilling is not necessarily needed. My tiller was never effective in this rocky, hard clay and usually just bounced all over creation so I stopped trying. I've been doing exactly what you did for the last two years with great results. I'm slowly reclaiming what I thought were impossible areas just by putting down a couple of layers of cardboard right overtop of thriving weeds and making sure it overlaps properly to prevent sunlight from penetrating. Then I cover that with a thick layer of mulch/dirt, etc... (heck, sometimes I don't even mulch if it's an area that isn't easily visible and won't be an eyesore. If there are already established plants in the area I just cardboard around them and pull whatever weeds may reach out around their bases. Otherwise I just wait until the weeds are dead before planting new things. Even if a few stray weeds or runners find a way through it's much easier to eliminate those few once all the rest are dead. I had an area that was completely taken over by wild blackberry vines taller than me. They spread 15 feet closer to the house in just one season! So I whacked everything to the ground and then blanketed with the cardboard in the summer and everything underneath is dead now(yay!) I have yet to find a chemical brush or weed killer that actually does what it's supposed to and kill the root of the annoying weed grasses, thorny vines, etc... This takes a little longer but will not waste your money or time like spraying. I also just borrowed a large rubber liner from a relative and I'm going to use that to try and retake my gravel driveway and parking area one section at a time. I have heard this "solarization" is not always recommended for areas where you intend to plant though because the heat will also kill the beneficial microbes & organisms that are in that soil. Weeds in gravel are an awful pain. I look forward to a day when we can afford to blacktop it. Sincerely, Danielle

Also, do you think that a single 18-gallon tub would be large enough for both tomato plants? Maybe, possibly - although it is not something I would do here, especially with the two varieties you are growing. They can get quite large as spiced ham pointed out. A self-watering container might increase the odds of a good result, as I think several who use Earthboxes or EB type containers sometimes put two. In any case, if I were to try putting two plants in one self-watering container (here in my inferno), it wouldn't be those two. It would probably be two compact indets or semi-dets (or dets or dwarves), or one large indet and then another var that is more on the compact side. If it's just going to be a tote where you are top watering with a hose and occasionally adding fertilizer, might be tough to keep up with providing enough of what the two plants need and *when* they need it in that size of container. Btw, there is a thread or two here about building your own self watering containers out of plastic totes - do a search on "earthtainer" and/or "raybo". There are also Josh's instructions for making them, see link at the end. Can't recall if Josh covers the need for a fertilizer strip and dolomite lime in his instructions, think Ray might. Also, what state or growing zone are you in? In a warmer or long season climate, the plants will likely get much larger than if, say, you live in Vermont or Canada. Plus, their water needs will be higher in a hot or warm climate. Oh, and I would personally start 8-10 seeds, 4-5 of each - then pick the 2-3 best looking of each var to pot up from your sowing. That way, you have a backup or two in case something happens to the plants. Here is a link that might be useful: self watering container instructions (josho)

If you should take cuttings from them or not would all depend on what is wrong with them, why they "don't seem to be doing that well"? If it is a disease problem then cuttings are a waste of time. If it is a nutrient problem then the cuttings will have the same problems unless you ID and fix it. Is it lack of sun, lack of water, what are the symptoms? Otherwise I agree with the advice above - trench in the entire plant leaving just the growing tip exposed and hope for the best recovery and production. Dave

There are several good books on Concrete Countertops. I purchase one and was going to do them but quickly changed my mind due to the weight. But I still have the books. Try Amazon for further info. I would try engine degreaser that said it can be use also on concrete driveways to degrease it! It is an aerosol spray can. You wet the concrete and then spray it on; use a brush to work it in and wait ten minutes and rinse - use a buck and a sponge. It works great on my garage floor. Not sure about any hazardous outputs that it might leave behind however; since it a kitchen area! But it suppose to be safe in terms of biodegrable. Call the manufacturer before using it - get a MSDS too!