New to Hostas-zone 8b
ClassicStyle (CntlTx; z8b)
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Hostas For Zone 8B
Comments (13)I too, grow in pots. I'm going to try some So Sweet in the ground this spring, though. Some varieties will do better for you than others. What has been suggested for warmer climates are the progeny of plantaginea. That translates to something fragrant. The hosta library has lists of fragrant hostas www.hostalibrary.org. Tony Avent (a hosta breeder and nurseryman) has also made of hostas that do well in warmer climates http://www.plantdelights.com/Tony/warmhosta.php. The Smith County Extention service did a hosta trial several years ago. (Tyler, TX is in Smith County which is alternately 8a or 7b.) They have sandy soil, like I'm sure you have. They probably get cooler, but they are just as hot as we are. I'll attach their results at the end. The hosta library has pictures of most hostas, so you can see what the recommended plants look like. Most pages have a link to another site that will tell you how big they get (my hostas database info). I would suggest you put some in the ground and some in pots. I didn't have good results in the ground, but I live in black land clay. This was also many years ago, when I first started gardening. I've read in the gardening section of the local paper that others have had success with hostas in the ground. Apparently, really good soil preparation is the key. I would suggest no direct sunshine. Two of mine burned this past summer just getting the really late afternoon sun. They're under a pecan tree, but at about 5:30 in June, the sun got them when it went to it's northern most angle. It was between 5:30 and 7:30 in the late afternoon. They won't die from that small exposure, they'll just get ugly. Most hostas don't put on many more leaves after they first leaf out in the spring, so if they get burned, you're stuck with it for the rest of the season. Good Luck. We'll be here if you have any questions. Most of us are not gardening right now, but are checking in weekly instead of daily like we do in the spring and summer. Just be patient, we'll be here. Bkay (everything shifts when I copy it here, but the first rating is how the plant looked in june, then august, then october, then an average) NAME DATE AVERAGE June August October Blue Angel 9.8 8.8 10 9.5 Sugar & Cream 9.2 9.4 9 9.2 Blue Cadet 8.7 8.8 10 9.2 Francee 6.0 8.8 10 8.3 Gold Standard 6.3 7.6 10 8.0 Honeybells 7.1 8.8 8 8.0 So Sweet 9.4 5.6 8.5 7.8 Royal Standard 7.4 9 7 7.8 Lancifolia 7.3 7.8 8 7.7 Grand Tiara 7.8 7.2 7 7.3 Albo-Marginata 7.6 5.8 7 6.8 September Sun 6.2 7 7 6.7 Sun Power 6.8 6.8 6 6.5 Elegans 6.0 7.4 6 6.5 Emerald Tiara 7.8 7.2 4 6.3 Patriot 4.6 6.2 7 5.9 Bold Ribbon 6.5 6.8 3 5.4 Guacamole 6.7 5.4 4 5.4 Gold Edger 7.1 6 3 5.4 Fragrant Bouquet 5.1 4.8 6 5.3 Sagae 5.2 4.6 6 5.3 Shade Fanfare 5.5 4.6 3 4.4 Summer Music 3.8 2.8 6 4.2 Undulata 6.3 3 3 4.1 Temple Bells 6.1 3.2 3 4.1 Krossa Regal 4.2 3.8 4 4.0 Resonance 4.3 5.2 2 3.8 H. fortunei 'Aureo Marginata' 4.3 3 2 3.1 Aphrodite 3.5 2.4 3 3.0 Colossal 4.3 2.6 2 3.0 Fried Green Tomatoes 3.8 3.4 1 2.7 Invincible 4.5 2.6 1 2.7 Halcyon 2.8 2.8 2 2.5 Big Daddy 2.3 2.8 1 2.0 Daybreak 1.7 2.4 2 2.0 Sum & Substance 2.1 1.8 2 2.0 Hadspen Heron 1.5 1 1 1.2 *Master Gardeners were asked to rank each variety from 1 to 10, with 1 = worst/almost dead, and 10 = outstanding in every way....See MoreFoundation plants for shade in Zone 8B
Comments (7)Where are you in SC? I'm wondering which hostas and lenten roses you have found that do well around here as I've never had any luck with them. Do you have named varieites? Other evergreens that I can think of are acubas, some viburnums, fatsehedra. Things that die back or lose their leaves would be hydrangeas, caladiums, ginger lilies, firespike, phillipine violet, columbine. Most need some sun...either morning or filtered. Foundation planting always stumps me. It is so hard to find any variety and I hate just doing the same things everyone does....See MoreMy greenhouse project Zone 8b
Comments (0)This greenhouse project was born when I met my future wife. Her mother gave me a curry leaf tree sucker from a tree she smuggled inside her carry-on when she flew from Kerala to Austin. At the time (and still in effect I believe) there was a customs ban on importing curry leaf trees to the US. In the beginning, I would move the tree into the bathroom during the winter. Over time, I re-potted suckers and even propagated some seeds. The bathroom was simply not big enough. Anyway, that little tree I received has turned into more than 20 trees, all in various stages of growth. The original tree is over 8 feet tall now and it should be mature enough to survive Texas winters (light freezes, Zone 8b) in the ground. I built this 10x10 hoophouse/greenhouse made from 1" EMT conduit. I bought the hardware bits and plastic sheeting from a greenhouse supply here in Texas and I bought the EMT from a local retailer (McCoy's). Originally (2014) I used a scissor-type door on each end. While this was inexpensive and functional, it did not work as well as I had hoped. It was cumbersome for venting purposes and it was virtually impossible to seal the bottom of the door, which caused a billowing effect when the wind was blowing. I also added a 2 foot duct extension from the dryer vent on the house and slipped it under the plastic to warm the greenhouse with the dryer on cold nights. It worked pretty good. The whole design did work overall, just not to my satisfaction. This fall (2015/16) I removed the scissor doors and built end wall door frames supported by a 2x6 center beam at the top and a 2x6 base 'apron'. The doors are quite large and have no trouble venting humidity in winter. (we have fairly mild winters here with cold nights and relatively warm days). I also installed a dryer vent on the inside of the greenhouse so I could quickly connect and disconnect the duct for night time winter heating. For Summer I can keep the doors open as well as roll up the sides. I also have a 12x12 shade cloth to be installed overhead. (it's not uncommon to have 60-90 days over 100 degrees in Summer here) The original metal frame is secured in the ground with twelve 18" rebar stakes. Here are the pics: This is an 8x4 table I made so I would have a large surface to bend the 10 foot EMT into the proper shape. I made the table with EMT and plywood (2014): This is me building the original EMT frame (2014): This is basically it. I Rolled up the excess plastic on the sides and trimmed some excess from the doors, but that's it. If you look in the window on the house you can see the dryer and the dryer duct coming out of it. The vent is located just around the corner of the house out of view.(2014) Here you can see the scissor door. The hinge is at the top. To secure it you clamp the two poles together. The bottom will move back and forth perpendicular to the way the door opens. (2014) This is the new wood frame I built to support the new end wall doors. The doors are made from 2x4's so they are quite heavy. They are also about 38 inches wide. The hinges are secured with hex bolts. (2015/16) Here it is again. (2015/16) Here it is finished and trimmed. I used plain wood clothes pins to secure excess plastic from the hoop where it meets the end wall. It's quite secure like this. Later I trimmed some of the excess plastic you see on the ground facing the beehives. (2015/16) Here I installed a dryer vent inside the greenhouse. It makes for a quick connect/disconnect for those times I want to add some heat on cold nights. It is very close to the actual dryer inside the house so it doesn't degrade the dryer performance at all. By the way, the wall facing the house also faces North by Northwest.(2015/16)...See MoreDead-looking (but alive) shrubs (zone 8b)
Comments (7)you could give them a few more weeks .. and then cut back to live growth ... whenever i see no upper growth ... but only new very low growth.. in spring .... its usually a cold issue .. in my MI ... as noted.. they have been there a long time ... so it must have been some freak cold snap ... presuming of course.. that you have ruled out disease or bug issues ... which are usually not a winter thing ... but again.. i dont know what winter is.. in S TX ... btw .. with those large long established plants ... and the resultant huge root mass .. and long growing season ....you might be surprised how fast they recover ... my usual caveat with my shorter season .. would be.. do you really want a long term renovation project which looks like it is out your front door ... and if you dont like what you end up with .. just remove them ... rather than looking at it all the time ... there is no guilt in removing an eyesore in front of your new castle .... if it comes down to that ... finally.. anything over 8 hours of sun... is full sun ... so the fact that they dont get sun until 11 is not a big deal ... ken...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoClassicStyle (CntlTx; z8b) thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5ClassicStyle (CntlTx; z8b)
7 years agoClassicStyle (CntlTx; z8b)
7 years agozkathy z7a NC
7 years agoClassicStyle (CntlTx; z8b)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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