How can I determine which tomatoes will do well in my area?
Ihave Nonamé
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
how do i decide which tomato seedlings to plant?
Comments (10)Leira, I made the switch to thinning (or sometimes breaking out the multiples from the cell and potting up at the cotyledon stage if I am running low on seed) after noticing that the ones that I gave more room and less competition to grew bigger faster. They also seemed to adapt to the garden faster. Maybe try a comparison. I think the conditions in their pots tend to stay more stable too, instead of rapidly swinging from wet to dry to wet to dry again as seemed to be the case with large plants sharing a tiny bit of soil. But I also know from working in a garden center that tomatoes are tough and can survive in crowded four packs for a while, even if it isn't optimal. So if space is a serious issue, then less than optimal growth is good enough as long as you get plants you can put out and get tomatoes from. I just thought that implicit in the question of "how do you choose which to pot up" was the question of when do you choose to pot up. Cheers!...See MoreHow long after purchase can I tell my plants are doing well???
Comments (6)In a normal acclimation process, some indoor plants can be expected to lose some leaves, but it should not be excessive. Some acclimation difficulty could be considered normal. However, if you have done you're homework....then you'll do the very best you can to position any new plant in the best location possible. It's really not a waiting game. You're the one in charge. If you have placed the new plants in a location that does not provide enough sunlight, you will see some foliage drop fairly soon. But as the weeks and months go by, your plant will become leggy, lank, and obviously unhappy. If you place a low-light plant in full sun, it will burn in a few hours. If you proceed to over water your plant from the moment you get it home, it will lose some leaves, yellow, and perhaps develop root rot and die....See MoreTomatoes - am I doing it well?
Comments (11)Well, I'm doing the hard work NOW so that I don't have to worry much about my tomatoes LATER. (that's how I'm "simplify" :-) The reason why I'm going through all of this stuff is that this is my SEVENTH year trying tomatoes. Every year I run into this problem or that. I've grown them in bags - which worked great 'til a cold snap hit. (I had planted them too late). I've tried them in the summer -- got aphid issues and died before I noticed... etc. This year, I'm getting them in the ground about a month later than I wanted to --- most of them are still in small pots and staying small... but I'm trying to get that garden RIGHT so that it's easier next time around. I'm going to pick up some Neem - I've never used it, but I'd like to try it. The watering tube is interesting to me - but I've been also hitting the soil from the top because I don't fully believe that the water wicks UP - I suspect it probably will drain DOWN, away from the plant. But I'm willing to try it. Overwatering is PROBABLY not going to be a problem because our soil drains SO QUICKLY, but I still am not 100% sure how to do it properly. They respond quickly when I water from above (directly to the soil - I don't get the leaves wet) but watering from below, I can't tell. (I'm truly hoping that it's encouraging a strong root system) Preparing the holes takes the longest. I probably don't need the sterlite, but I just love how loose and light the soil feels when I use it. The cages I ended up making are a little more narrow than I would have liked - they're about 18-20" around - but free is free (and I'm spending enough money on soil amendments as it is) I may snake a soaker hose under the black plastic- or perhaps poke holes in the plastic around the tomato cages and create divits to allow water to pool and drip into the soil underneath them - sort of the "moat" idea that I used with good success a few years back. I'm going to pick up some cheap fertilizer spikes as well, since I have a container tomato plant that is doing better than any of my other plants - and the only difference is that I put FOUR of those baby spikes in rather than one or two - and its growing and growing. I'm almost afraid to disturb it by planting it in the groud, its doing so well! (I'm leaving that tomato plant to be the last one I plant)....See Morehow do I determine the internal size of my current dryer?
Comments (6)Your dryer is probably considered a "super" capacity model, probably 7 cu ft drum size. More important than than the actual drum size is how much space the clothes need for proper drying. A full load for a dryer (when initially wet) typically fills the drum 1/2 full, or I was going to say up to 2/3 full but that may be too much. Maybe 3/5. There must be room for the clothes to tumble, and they'll get fluffier when dry. What kind of washer do you have? If it's a "matched" pair the capacities should be compatible ... unless you're overloading the washer. I'm thinking more likely you have a clogged vent duct. Check that out before blaming the dryer. How does your vent duct run? Straight through an outside wall? Or are there one or more turns, up through the ceiling, down through the floor, etc., etc.? With the dryer running, go outside and check that there's a fairly strong flow of air coming out. Are you using flex-duct between the dryer and wall? Is the dryer pushed back too far or off-kilter, compressing the duct? That happened to a friend, she kept telling me her dryer isn't heating, takes way too long to dry. Turns out it WAS heating, but the machine was shoved back against the wall, crushing the duct. This, for example, is a very bad thing....See Morealbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoIhave Nonamé thanked albert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.digdirt2
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