I craned my neck up the two 3 x 10 inch vent apertures to re-evaluate the galvanized steel vertical run this morning. Couldn't get any flash up there for photos. The front "convexity" turns out to be due to the front steel vertical run on the cabinet side having being installed about 110 degrees from the horizontal rather than 90 degrees (straight up) at the top. The short vertical steel run along the back of wall is straight up. So that's what makes it appear convex (curving out, or in this case, leaning out about 20 more degrees from 90). This caused one recent kitchen GC to wonder if a duct was in that "convexity" running horizontal (towards the brick wall), which there is not. The two sides (front high and lower back) clearly show the created hole (a space) on the rear side. Thus the answer is this is the first 90 degree turn of the entire run to outside, which somewhere probably merges to an 8" or 10" duct for exterior squirrel fan. Not being a vent person, I doubt I'll ever figure out the entire run. Since this kitchen was installed sometime in the mid 70's (a St. Charles kitchen, metal boxes, wood doors and all the unique design drawers and cabinets they were known for) it's impressive to me that a 1000 cfm exterior fan was utilized. This suggests the vent run is long with several 90 degree turns, and that the real amount of cfm draw by the fan system along the ducts is pragmatically a good amount less. Ventilation physics doesn't change with time, but it showed foresight. On to a total house gas estimator sheet, focusing on the kitchen MP gas regulator, the kitchen gas supply line diameter and any downsize adaptor, and emergency shut off valve, Then I can move along to a gas or dual fuel range and vent hood choice. It's been a long ventilation study process.

I like TJ's herb pizza dough. I used to buy that everytime I was at Trader Joes..which was every few months. Now that we have pizza every Friday I make my version of Lou's dough. I par bake it. I put it on a cold stone in a 425 oven. It's only raw in the center if I don't par bake..but we like thick crust so one "dough" recipe is used for 15" pizza. BTW, HI LOU...It's good to see you!!!!!!! Here's the way I make it. 1 c warm water 1 T honey (Lou calls for 3T sugar) 2 1/2 t yeast (mix and let set until it starts to bubble) stir in 1/2 t salt 1 T EVOO (Lou calls for 1/4 c oil) 1 c wheat flour 2 cup white flour (Lou calls for 3 1/2 c white and 1/2 c wheat) Blend until all the flour is absorbed, formed into a ball in the bowl..Let rest for 10 or so minutes while I get everything else together. It will start to rise.. When I'm ready, I start to shape it on the counter, then finish on a cold corn meal dusted stone.

''You can cut with minimal deformation using aircraft snips instead of tin snips." Good to know! Problem for ME is that i think I have also used such tools to cut heavy steel and they still did not bend the waste pieces back and away from the cutting line. I have cut corrugated steel barn siding with a variety of implements, including (but not necessarily limited too): snips, reciprocating saw and circular saw. Snips were useless after about four inches of cut, I reeeeally should have used ears plugs when using the reciprocating saw and it was difficult to control, but the circular saw did not do too badly as long as you stayed well clear of the flying steel chips. :o/ BUT, that is a lot heavier than what you are likely to use for your chalkboard. I digressed, but you should be good with a light-gauge steel and good aviation snips.

Linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits is a traditional homemade finish. Start with 50/50 for the first coats, and decrease the amount of mineral spirits each additional coat until the final coat is pure oil. Linseed oil yellows over time and requires yearly recoating. Pure Tung oil by itself is not suitable for outdoor finishes. The ready made teak and tung oil finishes have added resins and solvents that do offer outdoor protection. You will have to reapply these every year, but a simple cleaning and recoat is all. Marine varnish is another good choice for outdoor furniture. These are used for boats, decks, etc. These have more resin and offer longer performance with easy recoating and spot touch up. I recommend Waterlox because it combines tung oil with an epoxy (phenolic) resin. It will not yellow like the linseed oil and the phenolic resin bonds molecularly with the tung oil. Use the waterlox original (a great interior varnish by itself) for the first coat and then Waterlox satin or gloss marine varnish for the top coats. Let dry completely between coats. Lightly sand burrs before each recoat. After the final coat, let dry at least a week and then rub out with super fine steel wool and buff with a soft rag.