I think you are right. It doesn't seem to spread to other leaves. If it was downy mildew, those yellow spots would turn into brown wilt at some time, and even if they are still yellow, the leaves seem healthy so far. -Powdery mildew is very easy to recognise, as creates a white "fuzz" on the upper side of the leaf. I think these two are the types, of which they are most receptible. As for the colouration, well, it is more or less the same as it was last week. Perhaps the yellow splotches have moved a bit further apart, as the leaves have grown in size, but I'm not sure if that is the case, or just in my imagination. -I'm quite sure that the smallest (and lowest) of those leaves looks just about the same as it did a week ago, but then again, it hasn't grown either.

Greetings: I have this issue too on both my honeycrisps. Talking with other growers, it is common on the new leaves to show these symptoms. At least on this variety. I heard rumors that Honeycrisp has a virus? If so that would explain these visual symptoms and also its non-vigorous growth habit. Honeycrisp has always had this issue. It should still grow and produce good apples.

Hi, Bass. Problem may not be THAT easily corrected, just by reaching for the Fe. I'm sure your soils drain well, just by looking at your handle. The reason I mention it (drainage) is because in saturated soils that drain poorly, low oxygen levels cause iron and manganese to become electron acceptors. This leads to their precipitation (iron and manganese) and, even though these elements might be present in soils, the plantÂs inability to assimilate them. Fe, Mo(molybdenum), and Mn (manganese) can all cause interveinal chlorosis. Iron deficiencies are also caused by too much Ca in soil and high media pH (from dissolved carbonates in your water? Iron additives won't likely help here.) Iron deficiencies are most readily seen in interveinal chlorosis of new leaves which will also often turn very light. Al

It's hard to tell from your pictures, but if you're sure you're not over-watering, it looks as though there might be a high level of solubles in play. Also, no plant likes to be root bound. The unwanted effects of tight roots include shorter internodes & loss of branch extension, smaller leaves, lower vitality, shedding of older foliage so that most growth is concentrated near meristematic regions (near branch tips), and often the inability to water properly. I would do a complete repot, which includes bare-rooting, root-pruning, and a change of soil. Repotting and root pruning has a SIGNIFICANT rejuvenating effect on plants. Plants repotted can be counted on to exhibit greater biomass by the end of the growth cycle than their counterparts that may not have been so fortunate as to be as well cared for. If you're interested in how to take care of trees in containers, I would suggest you read and become familiar with the information in the thread I'll link you too. I've have been growing trees in containers for more than 25 years, and teaching gardeners in my own and surrounding communities, how to improve their skillset relative to container culture. I currently have somewhere between 250-300 old woody plants, covering many dozen species, in containers - all perfectly healthy. Al