Icf vs rigid foam basement foundation? R value and cost
Love stone homes
7 years ago
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Wont extruded rigid foam poly trap moisture?
Comments (10)I'm doing something very similar, but want some confirmation. I just had a french drain installed in my finished basement because I've always had a water problem there. I had a flood last year, probably because my window well is all concrete and had no drain. I would always see some water along the front of the house when it would rain. So, I cut out the front wall (left the metal framing, which sits about 3" off the foundation wall) and had the french drain installed along with a drain installed in the well that connects to the french drain through the foundation wall directly below the well. As part of the french drain system, there is a molding installed along the bottom of the foundation wall that connects to the french drain to allow any water that drips down the wall to drain be evacuated by the drain. from the Seems to have worked. There are some cracks in the wall and areas where the thoroseal on the wall has failed, and the wall appears to be a very large block wall. It is completely below grade. So, now I want to install insulation and refinish the wall. My house is in the northeast US (NYC). I bought 2" XPS and am trying to squeeze it behind the metal framing of the wall I cut out - a difficult task that requires cutting the XPS into smaller pieces. I intend to insulate as well as can be around the plumbing and electrical in the utility closet (location of meters, main panel, waste pit, etc.) that is also located along that wall. The finished wall will angle inward to the house to create the closet, so the interior of the closet will be open to the gap between the XPS and the wall finished wall. I'm using construction adhesive only (no furring strips). Then I was going to install R-13 faced batt insulation face-side inward between the XPS and sheetrock (excluding the utility closet, that will not have sheetrock on that wall). So, does this sound like a good plan? Also, what should I use to fill the gaps between the edge of the XPS and the window frame, sill plate, etc? What about between the pieces of xps that may not (okay, do not) fit perfectly together? Also, can I get away without adding a dehumidifier (I'd hate to waste electricity)? Thanks...See Moreicf vs infloor heat / stag studs vs extra insulation
Comments (7)both ICF and the staggered studs are far more $$ but want to know if they payout in the end from people who have done either way You need to tell us how long you intend to live there. Is this your intended "final house"? If so, I'd definitely spend the extra to get a more efficient & comfortable home. I expect energy costs to be volatile in the future, but with a general upwards trend. But if you tend to move around every 5-7 years, maybe not. Personally, we built with ICF walls from basement to roof. I don't regret it, because the house is quiet and cheaper to heat. But we do intend to live here "forever", so the cost will almost certainly pay off for us. A side-benefit of thicker walls, aside from the quiet, is that you get deep window sills. Our cats certainly thank us for that , and it allows us to get multiple window treatments (double-wall cellular blinds plus curtains) well within the 11" deep window openings, if we choose to put curtains inside the opening rather than overlapping the outside. --Steve...See MoreFoam under basement slab
Comments (23)Just to chime in. Back to Raleigh where one of the posters had insulated under the slab. This seems unusual. While it may help slightly in the winter, it probably hurts an equal amount in the summer. Either way - not much of an issue but why would you go through the expense. Raleigh is roughly an equal cost heating and a/c (depending on design of house and how you heat) climate. The foam under the slab reduces the natural cooling of the basement by the earth. My walkout basement with 150 sq ft of windows was never above 84 or below 50 before I finished it - and that was before air sealing. I think with air sealing (prior to HVAC), it would have been between 55 and 80 year round. As far as moisture, I just know that I have been in many moldy smelling basements in the area. My builder's never smell and he doesn't use foam under the slab. I think the key here is ground sloping and siting rather than under floor moisture migration but this issue has to be incredibly local. I have to imagine in Ontario, some underslab insulation is in order. But, if the space is part time heated, it may not be a big deal. If you have NG and just use the space 10 hrs a week, then we are talking pennies in the grand scheme of things. Sure, it might help a tiny bit with duct losses but again pennies....See MoreInsulating the outside of a house for air infiltration/R-values.
Comments (33)No bb, that is not what I have. I guess I'm still learning. I just remember that when they sold me the hot water heater and boiler, they said it was a "direct vent" type. that's why I reiterated that. I thought a DV was just an appliance which was vented forcefully (horizontally outside of the wall or otherwise) instead of with a chimney type instrument. Thank you for the clarification. My two forced air heating units are in the attic and it's unfinished with a gable vent near them. A lot of (cold) air gets in through the vent when they turn on. Maybe that would do the trick. It does seem that it should somehow get air INTO the living space though. I definately understand what you mean about the negative pressure. I'll have to look closely at my units to see if they are indeed direct vent and if they're even installed properly. The hot water heater has a 3 inch PVC pipe going straight out the side of the house, that's it. The boiler (not hooked up yet) is the same way, near the HWH in the basement in a closet with louvered doors. The two units in the attic have that ven like I described. I need some kind of house audit... but the pros I hired to do the original work should have mentioned all this. I'm just learning this now after reading here for a while. thanks again for all the replies. I'm learning a bit from this. One more thing, I can't stop talking here... lol If I have both vents, in and out, at the same location, would'nt the "out" air just come back "in" with that setup? It would seem like a circle exchange of some kind and you'd suck the "old/bad" air back in....See MoreLove stone homes
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLove stone homes
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoSpringtime Builders
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLove stone homes thanked Springtime BuildersLove stone homes
7 years ago
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