len, That you don't understand, comprehend or like the science is fine. I'm not trying to convert you into a believer. But, your notion of using gypsum without established good reason is, in western U.S. soils, just plain reckless. It can, in a number of areas, result in excessive soil Ca levels, with very negative effects for plants. It has been well tried, tested, studied and proven. That's a point you just don't seem to get - the soils in the Western U.S. are not like yours, and the same treatments will not have the same effects. Try this from the Colorado Extension Service: Gypsum is a mineral found in large quantities in most Colorado soils. The belief persists that adding gypsum can "break up" the compact clay soils so typical of the Front Range area. This is not true and here is why. Calcium sulfate or gypsum when added to our clay soils only increases the already high calcium content. Since plants growing in our soils already have all the calcium they need, the added gypsum does nothing to improve plant growth. Spending money and time to add gypsum to a soil that is already high in calcium is a waste of money and effort. As far as relieving soil compaction, gypsum has no effect. Loosening soils is a physical process, not a chemical one. The way to break up tight, clay soils is through adding and mixing in organic amendments. The amendment holds the clay particles apart creating more space for the air so critical to plant root growth. Improve the aeration and drainage of your clay soils with organic amendments such as compost, peat and manure. Add a two inch layer of the organic amendment on the surface of the soil and till or spade in to a four to six inch depth. When purchasing organic soil amendments, buy four cubic yards for every thousand square feet of area. It's easy for gardeners frustrated by hard, clay soils to grasp at anything that sounds like it might work. With gypsum, the expression "If it sounds too good to be true, it is too good to be true" applies. Decades of research has proven gypsum is not the answer for us. The secret to developing a good soil for gardening in our area is one organic gardeners have known for years - organic amendments Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado - What About Gypsum?

Martin that is a great looking 'orchard' (Is orchard the right word for fig trees?). If I can figure out how to make sure that they are watered every day I will try that. My Latarrula started in a container but I couldn't get to it every day to water so it dropped its figs. Last year I planted it in ground but with the bad weather I didnt get any this year either and they are supposed to be good here. I use tanglefoot for my grapes and cherries and it works very well to keep ants away. Wild forager, 70 figs is better than I have ever had from in-ground fig trees yet altho my Petite negri probably had that many that did not ripen this year. Pauly22 That give me some hope. I do use the pinching method already so will use it for the DK too. One thing I am wondering about is how to keep it small but it's only 2 years old now so it's not too much or a worry yet. This is my first try as a bush-type instead of single-stem tree. I did prune my trees a bit this Spring and I am wondering if having to grow from non-apical buds slowed them down some. Maybe next Spring I'll forget the pruning until they reach the 6 leaf stage then pinch. Daniel

Spectrum, More or less, ALL figs (Ficus carica) have the same hardiness. Some (e.g., Hardy Chicago) are claimed to be more hardy, but actually they only bounce back from any ground winter kill to produce fruit the following summer. Others may be slightly less hardy (or more prone to rot - e.g., PN, VdB), and may not come back at all. The difference is not THAT big... Two falls ago, I was in GreekTown Baltimore MD, and I have seen some BIG unprotected fig trees. Speaking to some of the owners, they informed me that, that location seems to be a demarcation line. A few more miles up north, fig trees need to be winter-protected, else they would be winter-killed (at least when very young), but not there in GT, MD... Also the Chesapeake Bay temperature-buffering waters must be playing a very important helping factor.

Thanks azt, I love the colors! contrasting cobalt blue from your bonsai pots and the bright green bouncing off your haw! I think David mentioned Haws need DEEP pots for their roots grow downwards. I love the concept, but I might eventually repot this bonsai pot for other succulents, maybe for my jade. I got them off etsy for about $5.99. :D https://www.etsy.com/listing/211039314/bonsai-pot-5-ceramic-pk-only-1-pot-not-a?ref=shop_home_active_23 Stonetreehouse - cute little set up there! love the teapots