You softener is really oversized for your water usage, which would be fine if you didn't have the iron in your water. With iron in the water, you want to regen every 4 days to mitigate fouling. Your oversized softener means you will have to make a choice between lugging a lot of extra salt and being salt efficient, because you can't do both.

Set C at 48

H at 12

BF at 11

Do at 5

You're going to use a lot of salt. Additionally, you need to do some maintenance to slow down iron fouling.

The
problem with iron-laden water in a softener is that softener resin
has a great affinity for iron and does not release it easily. Iron
will slowly foul the softener resin from the inside out. Extra
measures need to be taken to remove the iron. For this you have
several options.

1. The
   easiest option may be to simply use Iron-Remover salt.
2. Alternatively,
   you can use Super Iron Out. You may choose to layer this in with
   your salt. If you choose this option, use 1/4 C per 40 lb bag of
   salt.
3. Super
   Iron Out is more effective if used monthly with the following
   procedure: Ensure
   you have a strong brine in your brine tank - at least 24 hours since
   the last regen. Dissolve
   1 C Iron Out in cool water and pour it into the brine well inside
   your brine tank. If you don't have a brine well, for some reason,
   pour it down the side of the tank rather than through the salt.Place
   your softener into manual regen and stay right there.When
   backwash is complete, the softener will move to the brine/slow rinse
   mode. Pay attention to the way it sounds. After 10 minutes or so
   the sound will change when there is no more brine to draw. At this
   point, we want the Iron Out to sit in the softener for an hour. To
   do that, push the button to advance to the next regen step, then the
   next until your softener is back in service mode. Do this as quickly
   as you can. Switch
   your valves so your softener is bypassed and wait one hour minimum. Place
   your valves back in service mode and manually start a softener regen. Once
   the regen is complete you're good to go for another month.
4. A
   liquid iron removal system such as Res Up can be installed in your
   brine tank to feed citric acid to the brine to aid with iron removal.

My preferred methods are 1 or
4 because they employ phosphoric acid, which is a much safer chemical
than those in Super Iron Out (sodium hydrosulfite and sodium
metabisulfite). The choice is yours - pick a method and follow it
religiously and your softener will give you many years of reliable
service.

Since your softener is so large, you could go a month between regens if you installed an iron removal system upstream from your softener, dropping your salt usage from 98 to 16 lb of salt per month. A little light reading about iron removal options in case you are interested:

Oxidation/Filtration:
An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with
the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be
removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur
compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a
holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite
well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water
treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option.

Oxidizing
filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank
filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is
oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds
as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I
would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several
different media that can be used:

1. Manganese
   greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be
   regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with
   dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic
   material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are
   quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not.
2. Synthetic
   greensand: This is essentially the same as option (1) but consists of
   a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as
   much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash
   flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft.
3. Birm:
   This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it
   does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved
   oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved
   oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air
   injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm
   requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per
   sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water
   temperatures and desired bed expansion.
4. Pyrolox:
   an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need
   regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a
   high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very
   well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft.
   Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily.
5. Terminox:
   Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require
   as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The
   particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this
   means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing.
   Backwash daily.
6. Filox:
   Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15
   gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily.
7. Pro-OX:
   Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft
   backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll
   have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately.
8. Katalox-light:
   Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite,
   manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 -
   12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well
   water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash.

In
all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years.
If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they
aren't trustworthy.

Thanks Alice.

First I just wanted to mention that, your posts in this forum have been very beneficial in helping my understanding here. Thanks.

In my original post should have mentioned that I have an automatic feeder in the brine tank filled with a product called 'PRO Res Care'. I'm not sure if this changes your recommendation for DO.

Additionally, there's a 5k Gal tank up stream with an ozone percolator (triple-0) in it. The water is fed from there into the house via a 3HP pump and two 50 Gal (?) pressure tanks. Not sure if that's sufficient to make the 10-20GPM requirement for some of the iron removal systems you identified. Oh, and my last water test shows a ph of 7.5.

Pro Res Care is phosporic acid, the same as Res Up. Its use will help to maintain your resin, provided you keep the DO short. Time is against you when you have iron in your water. Ferrous (clear-water, dissolved) iron reverts to ferric (particulate) iron slowly and steadily. As soon as iron is captured in a softener, it starts reverting, fouling resin beads from the inside out. The phos acid will keep the exterior and a little bit of the interior of the resin beads from from iron, but can't entirely reverse fouling.

Your water system should be fine for the less-dense iron removal media, such as birm, synthetic greensand, or Katalox light. If you are interested in this option, you will need to contact a local water treatment vendor to see what they recommend, then double-check to ensure their design meets media manufacturer specifications. Sadly, the vast majority of water treatment vendors lack sufficient training/education to properly size a system and take a one-size-fits-all approach to water treatment.

If you do install iron removal, operate it for a week, test to ensure it is working properly, then reset softener DO to 30 and H to 10.