OK, rmlanza, not invisible...but probably the best solution I could imagine for a situation with no backsplash. I like it! We had a similar challenge with a very large, triangular island. A triangular section of the island was lowered by three inches to serve as DW's baking center (easier to roll dough on a lower counter). Fortunately, we were able to snug a plugmold into a small space between the upper and lower counters so that it's partially obscured by the overhang. But if that opportunity hadn't presented itself, I would've opted for your solution. Bob

Chicagoans, thanks. The magnetic plates are an option offered by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. The magnets are very strong so they hold the plates firmly in place - no screw heads showing and no worry about over-tightening a screw. All our outlets and switches had magnetic steel bodies that they attached to, though in the case of the Lutron outlets we had to break off a plastic tab that covered the steel. Columbia Gorge can also supply some magnets to glue on if the switch or outlet body isn't a magnetic material. Our granite is Azul Do Mar (really it's quartzite - a type of metamorphic rock that is almost entirely made of quartz). It's similar to Azul Macaubas. The latter is primarily white and greenish blue or aqua. Like most stones with a lot of blue, it is kind of pricey due to rarity but not quite as expensive as Azul Macaubas. Cost was the only downside - it cleans up like a dream. It is low porosity so we haven't had to re-seal it. (I don't think it needed the initial sealing based on my tests on the sample but our installer insisted.) It is extremely strong and hard so it doesn't scratch. The cabinets are natural cherry made by DeWils (semi-custum). They are frameless because we wanted maximum storage space. We were very pleased with how sturdy the cabinets were and they filled our order perfectly.

Whelp I got the project mostly done. I need better latches on the upper cabinet doors as the cat Abby has decided I put that there for her to open doors and climb up into. GGGGRRRRRR Both pieces were on wheels !!!! All furniture should be on wheels. LOL The old stuff has come from all over. I remember the hooser came from a liquor store in Challis. Just some thing they were selling on the side.Most of my stuff really is just junk. Yard sale stuff thrift store. I still need to fine tune things in studio and kitchen but already Hoosier is great where it is and the ability to easily get to the appliances is a big help. Not that getting them from a shelf below cabinet is all that hard. For me now it is. sigh. Good news is my hands are getting better. This has been pretty miserable. I am going to jazz up the hoosier a little bit. I am not at all concerned to devalue it as it is not a good one. Crappy wood not pretty oak. Painted and all. Then I will get a picture. Adding fru fru to the top is out of the question Again Abby has her own opinion on what belongs up there and has cleared it twice already of what she does not like. This dang cat is more like an Orangutan than a sweet little kitty.

Not to worry about any side conversations up-thread. I enjoyed reading it, and it reminded me that electricians are people too. I purchased my GFI recepticles plus the Decora switches and cover plates at Lowes because I was very specific in what I wanted on the exterior. I didn't buy anything that goes into the wall. The can lights I purchased were expensive, and I bought them for what they looked like. 5 inch cans aren't really "standard" so I thought that it might be easier for me to present the cans and the baffles to my contractor rather than have him run back and forth to HD or Lowes. But the cans went back anyway.... So the only material I had for them was the light fixtures, glass shades, and Decora switches and cover plates, and GFIs, plus the Broan vent light unit (which is fabulous). As a homeowner, I am very very specific about placement of various "improvements" during a renovation. I've drawn on graph paper the wall itself showing the exact placement of the light fixtures, how many inches from the soffit, above the inset medicine cabinet mirror, where the outlet boxes are located with respect to the backsplash, etc. I have found that in writing everything out, at least I've told the tradesmen once and then it's written down, so I'm covered there. In the case of this bathroom, the vanity is 55.5" wide and will have two sinks, two light bars, two inset mirrored medicine cabinets, and two outlets. It's a very tight space with a lot going on, so every inch matters. I've approached my contractor and his electrician more humbly because of your posts. Of course, the fact that I know almost nothing abut electrical work is very obvious, I'm not pretending that I'm a pro, nor will I quibble over a few dollars. The working relationship is more important than that. Now about the other electricians, my contractor's own bid came in the lowest, and only one other company showed up in time to get a bid in before we had to get the work started, but this company couldn't do the work in time anyway. Another company failed to return my call, and a third company called too late. All in all, since we have not had lights in this room for years (except the Solatube which was added last summer-and the toilet/tub room has had lighting, so we're not in the complete dark anyway), so this will be a magnificent change for my family. Thanks again for everyone's ideas and suggestions!