White

I think a drop in sink is fine if water does not get trapped between the wood counter and the sink where they overlap - so majorly perfect caulking and I think there is a roll of putty that goes under the sink too - just remembering my old sink install many years ago.

Most sinks come with a template for cutting out the sink hole. If you can practice with your jigsaw and a nice new blade, you can probably do the cut out just fine. I have a Kohler Whitehaven farmhouse sink. With a farmhouse sink you would only need to get three sides right.

I think it will look great, and very appropriate to the style of countertop.

Full-depth, like the IKEA DOMSJO farmhouse one would be my first choice.

A drop-in with integral drainboard, well siliconed in place, would be next.

Unfortunately IKEA's Bholomen has been discontinued.

Then a drop-in with no drainboard.

Undercounter would be a distant fourth.

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We dry-fitted the countertop to make sure it was the right length and leveled, double-checked the hole position, taped the template in place, then took the countertop to the driveway for the sink installation.

It's far easier to do when you can walk around the counter and work comfortably. And caulk applied UNDER the edge of the sink is more effective than caulk applied around the edge later.

Cut the hole - with the edges protected by blue painters tape so you don't scuff the finish, remove tape, spread a layer of clear waterproof caulk on the cut edge, covering it completely. Let that dry.

Apply a THICK bead of waterproof silicon caulk around the edge of the hole.

FILL the crevice around the edge of the drop-in with more caulk. Lower the sink into place - the two beads of caulk will merge into one fat water blocking ring.

(We actually lowered the counters onto the sink - did the whole install upside down because it's way easier to tighten the sink bolts and faucet fasteners.)

Tighten the fasteners and apply one more ring of caulk where the sink meets the countertop .. just because we hate leaks. Let all the caulk set up.

Install the faucets.

Take the counter and sink back in and lower it onto the adhesive caulk you have just applied to the cabinet tops and supports.

For an undermount sink, a jigsaw will make a fine rough cut in butcher block, but you need at least a 1 1/2 horsepower router with a 1/2" bit and a jig to get it perfect. I'd test for burning and tear-out on a scrap; you may have to run the router counterclockwise.

If you've got the room in the cabinet for the clips you can use the method above, if not, cut and finish the cut-out, drop the sink into the cabinet, install the top, install a Hercules Universal Sink Harness or Sink Strap, apply silicone and strap the sink into place.

We have this drop-in Kohler Riverby cast iron single basin offset-drain sink in our butcher block and I sincerely love it. The price is fantastic too.

I love the look of porcelain sinks, but we're going from black to white and I'm not keen on the scratches you can see in them. So we went with white silgranit with out walnut counters.