A few more ideas for you. Plumeria -- how could I forget? So fragrant, and so many colors to choose from. They will grow to small tree size where you live, so plan accordingly. Another colorful option -- ti plants, or cordyline fruticosa -- many colors, shapes and sizes ranging from greens to vivid pinks, burgundies, and combinations. Don't overlook exotic anthuriums, very long-lasting waxy flowers in shades of red, pink, green, purple. They will brighten your shady areas with tropical punch. Perhaps you can grow heliconias and torch gingers -- a lasting display of exuberant tropical colors and exotic forms. These can be large or small, be sure you know mature size before you buy. Ixora -- I understand this is fairly common in South Florida, but they make a colorful contribution, are somewhat compact, and the lacy effect of the flowers will be a contrast to some of the others I've mentioned. Hope these suggestions are helpful.

Thanks so much for your replies. I hate to post pictures because they look so horrible. All of you northern growers seem to have such beautiful green trees in pots. Maybe I need to move up north and grow in pots too! I will try to get some posted though. The reason I use copper is because I probably have every fungus you can think of in my yard too. I have been gardening organically for about 4 years and have a lot of beneficial bugs in my yard. I guess the aphids are just more prolific than the beneficials. I live way out west of Fort Lauderdale about a 1.5 miles from the Everglades. The soil is muck soil with limestone about 1.5 feet down. Some parts where we brought in some fill around the house pad have a little sand too. Most things I plant seem to like the soil. I also have access to horse manure which I use a lot around my fruit trees. I heard citrus doesn't like that so much and that the roots need air, so I've stopped using it on the citrus. They get sun most of the day. A few of the key limes are shaded in the morning but then get sun from about 10:30 on. I have 4 key limes, 2 in the ground and 2 in pots. One grapefruit (the one I might loose), and two tangerines (look the best). I have other trees that need spraying too. Mangoes (2 types), bananas, grumichama, sugar apple, fig, passion fruit and lychee. Of all of these, citrus are giving me the hardest time. I do have a big problem with ants in my yard and love the tanglefoot idea. The nematodes sound great too and I have already done some research on them but can't find the one that is specifically for the diaprepes root weevil. I will continue my search. I just bought a new backpack sprayer because this spraying job is getting huge. Terri

hey viridis. that is true about the 17 species of geckos there is alot more than that there are just about every reptile that you can think of. and more trust me from collecting in the everglades. i seen a lot and know that people let lose rep. and so do the reptile wholesellers let lose a lot of reptiles. so ther is a lot not reported yet. this can turn into a problem later on. but is nice to look at while hunting reptiles. none???????????????????????????????

That is all correct. The upward-curved vine tip will occur when the vine is growing along the ground, because when it encounters a vertical surface it is positioned to take advantage of it. The same curve will happen when it grows past the top of the vertical surface and is hanging in space because it is still seeking a vertical orientation. If it were to grow straight on the ground and in the air, it would pass the tree or vertical surface instead of attaching to it and climbing it. A straight orientation hanging in the air would put it on a trip back to the ground. This plant is programmed to climb. If it grows on the ground, its leaves are small, and its tip is curved upwards. It grows small leaves to support its growth and focus all of its energy towards elongation. Internodes are long, and it is REACHING to find something to climb. When it encounters a suitable surface and attaches, it has achieved mission number 1. Leaves get larger, and the vine thickens with each new leaf. Internodes get shorter, the tip straightens because it is vertically oriented and attached. If the tip curved now, it would launch itself out into space and defeat mission number two, which is reaching the canopy, where it can get the premium quality light. Right now it is putting all of its energy into growing large leaves, large vines, and large aerial roots to grip its host. It is happy in this position, growing the largest, most robust leaves and vines that are simply not achievable without being attached. It is still reaching (upward), but not with the same desperation. Its needs are being met while it pursues mission number 2. If you were to pry the tip away from its host, each new leaf will grow smaller, the vine will grow thinner, the internodes will lengthen, and the tip will curve toward a vertical orientation. Now it is again in reaching mode, elongating desperately in search of a new host. Now I am not a botanist, and i havent read any books on the subject. I learned this by observing its behavior when i encounter it. Maybe someone that has some botanical training can confirm or correct my hypothesis.