Interesting thing about Dracaena names - no one ( I mean growers, botanists, collectors, researchers, etc.) agrees on what to call them. Mainly this is because the plants can change aspects (leaf coloration, size, growth pattern, etc.) more than once in the course of several years, based on the age of the plant as well as the cultural conditions. They also throw sports very easily. There are also many unnamed varieties in the wild, which can be introduced to the trade at any time. All of this is leading up to the observation that I don't think your plant is an 'Arturo' - those have yellow-green margins on the leaves, and it looks to me like yours has solid green leaves. Here's a link to the original patent information http://www.google.com/patents/USPP13814 and some color pics that show the margins more clearly, as well as loads of other dracaenas if you're interested. http://www.nieuwkoop-europe.com/downloads/Dracaena_brochure_spread.pdf Yours looks to be some form of Dracaena 'Janet Craig,' but as there are several varieties of that, you almost have to consult with the grower to identify specific cultivars. Even then, growers can have incorrect information, or at least information differing source to source. Until some energetic research facility undertakes a complicated genetic evaluation to determine which Dracaenas are related to which, the whole naming thing is a mish-mash.

Hi everyone, once again I can't sleep so I'm doing plant stuff :) I potted the Dracaena reflexa in Pro-Mix (not sure which version since there are many) standard potting soil. There isn't as much perlite in that mix as I've seen in some others, so hopefully it won't cause the plant any harm. The Yucca has been potted in the same soil, however I added a fair bit of perlite, which I rinsed beforehand. Now, as for the Cordyline, I dug a hole in the soil so I could feel the soil all the way down at the bottom, and even though the moisture meters (three of them) read "wet" or very close to it, the soil only feels mildly damp down there (and at other levels too). In fact, I took a small handful from the very bottom and squeezed it in my hand and when I released it, it fell apart and didn't remain clumped up at all. This should mean the soil isn't too wet, right? I also noted as I was using my hand to dig down to the bottom, that the soil wasn't tightly compacted at all and felt fluffy and easy to dig through.... So, these should be good signs that the soil isn't too wet for the plant, no? In fact, it might even be time to water it again... hmmm. I appreciate very much everyone who responds to my postings on here. :) I realize I'm likely obsessing a bit about things regarding the plants, but after losing all of my plants for undetermined reasons a number of years ago, I want to make sure I do it right this time 'round. I'm still hesitant to water these large plants to the point where water drains from the bottom, though on one hand I really want to try it so I can see how well it does (or doesn't drain). If I do saturate them and they remain wet for a while, how long before root rot will set in? Some say that it's only an issue if you do it repeatedly, while others claim leaving them too wet even for a single watering cycle can be deadly. Also, here's a picture of the three of them, just because plant pics are fun.

The first looks like a juniper.

I would love the Madagascar Dragon Tree if still available. PLMK. Thanks galily