A would add that a common problem for seedlings being grown by new gardeners is overwatering. Overwatering cuts off access to oxygen by the roots, and encourages root rot. I'd stick your finger deep in the soil and make sure it isn't sopping wet down there. With a drip system, sometimes it isn't clear exactly how much water you're applying, since you can't watch it as it is applied.

Dave,

I didn't know there was a Florida Gardening forum but I'll check into it. As for your questions, here are the responses:

Second Response: I grew the seedlings then planted them once they we ready to plant. I planted the bean seeds and they came up just fine but are now turning yellow and look like they're dying. The tomatoes and peppers are pitiful light green and don't seem to be adding new leaves.

Third Response: I put about 18 inches of garden soil (from a local garden soil provider) on top of the native soil and tilled it in. There are five (5) rows of soil above the ground and each row is about 18 inches above the natural grass level.

Fourth Response: I used a Home Depot home kit to determine the alkaline level, nitrogen level, phosphorus level, and pot ash level. The nitrogen was low so I added nitrogen to each of the rows.

To Daninthedirt - I checked the soil and it is damp but not overly wet.

Thank you both for responding,

Larry

How much nitrogen did you add to the soil, and in what form? Nitrogen burn can produce these symptoms. Yellowing leaves turning to brown. But Dave is right. Home test kits are not very accurate. I'd get a professional test asap. Especially important for a new and unproven bed. They aren't expensive.

http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Tests.asp

Dan - I used Nitrogen in accordance with the directly and applied it about 10 days ago. I expected the result to be better than it has been. I'll contact a professional in my area to get some help as the is a new bed that is totally unproven...........thank you...........Larry

I'll ask again. What was the form of nitrogen that you added to the soil? There are forms of nitrogen fertilizer that release all of it quickly, giving the soil a big jolt. Others release it more gradually. Nitrogen measurements are usually pretty suspect, and many labs are sometimes reluctant to do them. That's because the nitrogen content in even healthy soil is highly variable. It can change on time scales of days and weeks. You might want to consult neighbors or local garden clubs that have some experience at least with your native soil. Commercial "garden soil" can be just about anything. I guess if you got it from a trustworthy source, it probably is at least adequate.

You can usually get a professional soil test done through your local county ag extension office. Cost is about the same as the price for one of those kits. They are especially inaccurate when it comes to nitrogen results.

One problem you face is that beans and peppers have very different nitrogen needs from each other and both differ from that needed by tomatoes. So any blanket application of a high nitrogen source can be ideal for one crop and way to much for another. Beans don't actually need any supplemental nitrogen and don't tolerate it at all well so yellowing of bean leaves almost always indicates excess watering and root rot.

Over-watering is a chronic problem for many gardeners, especially new ones. So when in doubt I try to encourage them to reduce it by half. They often find the crops improve quickly since most garden crops will tolerate under-watering far better than they will over-watering.

Yet another possible consideration is that the the garden soil you added may have been contaminated. It seems to be an increasing problem over the past couple of years - outside soil sources contaminated with herbicides - so I'd suggest some research into the symptoms that shows in plants exposed to it and compare with yours.

Lastly, the form of the nitrogen you add makes a big difference. Not all forms are equal by any means.

Dave

Thank you for all the advice.

I found my University of Florida soil test forms and will be sending off a soil test to determine if my soil is suited for growing the crops I want to grow. I'm also going to look for a professional to help me read the tests and provide advice on how to grow here in Southwest Florida. Again thank you for your assistance.

Something else to consider could be nematodes in the soil. I have no experience with them but I have heard that they can be a problem in sandy southern soils.

Dave is correct about soil contamination, and the basic extension tests won't reveal such contamination. Composted manure from animals that ate herbicide-treated feed can still contain that herbicide. This is a big problem in some places, and crops have been lost on large scales. Google "aminopyralid compost". Responsible compost and garden soil providers will have gotten assurances about the manure they use. If you suspect this contamination may have occurred, do a test by planting a few pea or bean seeds in your mix, and also in commercial potting soil. If the plants in your mix die, but those in the potting soil don't, that's an indicator of contamination. You can see if people who got the same garden soil you did are having similar problems.

Thank you all for the responses, I'm meeting with a garden specialist to work through the growing issues.

Where is this florida gardening discussion. Btw im in S fort myers

Here it is Anthony

Florida gardening forum