I had this faucet a few years ago. I recognize it from the blue and red dot under the lever. I am not 100% sure but I think it may be a Franke, if Franke makes faucets. I say that because my sink was a Franke and I picked out the faucet at the same time from the appliance place. Back in those days, I had no idea what I was doing so would not have shopped separately for the faucet.

Thanks for all your replies. The building is divided into two and 15th floor is end of upper water line so we are near the end of that run and we are early risers. We have 3 year old high efficiency boilers which have never worked as well as the old ones but I'm fairly sure they are not specifically at fault. I think the circulating pump idea might be worth following since it does seem to be in that one riser. I feel like knocking on the doors above and below and just asking if they have problems. I know the building hasn't done so and I think it would help a lot in terms of resolving the matter. Since my first post I've spoken with the plumbing company that did the install and with the manufacturer of the shower fixture. We are considering that the thermostatic shower might be "crossing over". Not sure what it means but the experts think it's viable. We've decided to wait until it happens again at which point I'll call, they'll send their best guy ASAP. If it turns out to not be a crossover problem then at least he can do some snooping while the problem is happening. As it usually goes away by evening it's been hard to follow up so hopefully a quick response will make it easier to trace the problem.

Yes, I have written Blanco via the website. No response. But today is a holiday. Maybe I will hear something next week. a2g, funny you should mention . . . You may recall Waterstone Towson was on my dream list, but I settled. What I wanted -- for the prep and main sink -- would have run $5K. Well, I spent the morning looking at your pictures, and several other reveals on here, and poking around on the Waterstone site, and it made me realize I should not have settled. I should have found a way to get the best quality I could. It's plumbing, right? Don't cheap out on electrical or plumbing, ever. That's my new mantra . . . If I get this fixed cheaply, okay. I will live with it. But the next time something fails, I'm going to replace all the plumbing on both sinks, along with the filtration and hot tank. I am going to do what I should have done to begin with. And I might just buy some of those fancy Waterstone cabinet pulls to match it . . .LOL.

Re: mike­_home Et al In the case of the PO the average cost to run a 5-ton Waterfurnace Series 7 in all but the most brutal conditions would probably be ~51¢/hr. That’s hardly more to heat the whole house and to heat most of their DHW than the cost to run one 2kW baseboard heater in a studio apartment! Over capacity for cooling is no longer an issue as these systems are fully variable speed, blowers, compressors, flow centres and EEV’s. You can either size for cooling or full capacity heating without compromising effective cooling and dehumidification. The colder the climate, the more of a Big Deal defrost cycles become. Re: OP I’m not confident the proposed Mitsubishi HP will integrate well with your existing oil boiler hydronic system. This sounds more like a good solution for the installer, perhaps not so much for you. BTW: The proposed 3-ton Mitsubishi system has an EER rating of 12.5 and has an output of slightly more than 2-ton at 17˚F. This configuration might save some money but you will still be burning a lot of oil at a very low rate of efficiency if you don’t get to the meat of tackling your situation. By contrast, the Waterfurnace Series 7 has an EER rating of as high as 53.2. I still advise getting rid of the oil system completely, perhaps going completely all forced air and installing the most efficient system you can due to your high energy costs. Otherwise you’ll cringe for years to come opening your utility bills. ‘Buy once; cry once’! IMPO SR