Yes, that definitely sounds like iron chlorosis, especially since you said it started after the heavy rains. Too much water can keep a plant from being able to use whatever iron is available. Treat with iron chelate foliar spray for a quick fix and a couple weeks later (and annually in the spring) incorporate some around the root system for longer lasting results. Let the soil dry as much as possible between watering, without stressing the plant, until it recovers. It may bounce back and do fine or you may need to replace it. Some plants, like hibiscus, can have a hard time using the iron in our soil if they prefer an acid soil.

my plant was over watered and lost all its leaves. i let is dry out and new leaves are now coming but only in the lower and middle of the plant. Im wondering if i should cut it back to where the new leaves are or wait until it goes dormant.

A reduction in the photo load is most likely to be the primary cause, but tight roots can cause significant leaf loss, too. Root congestion is always manifest in the plant's tendency to lose inner and lower foliage, leaving the plant with a tufted look due to the bulk of its leaf mass being concentrated very near apices (branch tips). For best o/a vitality and bloom profusion, your plants should be bare-rooted, root-pruned, and repotted yearly. They have VERY vigorous root systems that can quickly become the plants own worst enemy as congestion increases. FWIW - I've never tried to get my plants to limp through the winters. I let them stay almost dry in a cool dark spot where they go into sort of a consequential dormancy. A few weeks before it's warm enough for them to go back outdoors, I start watering sparingly, which wakes them up. As soon as I see any evidence of new growth, I lift them, bare root, root prune, and repot into an appropriate soil - one that drains very well and allows me to water correctly at will. Never use a "bloom booster" fertilizer on potted plants. They don't tolerate much phosphorous w/o aborting buds & shedding leaves. Fertilizers with NPK ratios of 3:1:3 or 2:1:3 are excellent. My favorite fertilizer regimen is regular dosing with Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 (a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer) with the addition of Pro-TeKt 0-0-3, which adds an extra measure of K, which brings the NPK ratio up to something close to 3:1:3. Your fertilizer choices make a significant difference in both bloom numbers and the number of buds the plant retains (instead of aborting). Al

I'd say Silica is correct about the ratio of light to soil temperature. This is only meant to simplify the balance of the relationship between leaves and roots. Leaves use light to start the process of making food. The leaves will tell the roots that it needs all the ingredients of the photosynthesis "recipe" to finish making food. So in normal ideal outdoor conditions, the roots provide and send up water+nutrients needed to complete the food being made in the leaves. Imagine that to citrus roots 55F and lower is considered to be like frostbite to the roots. The roots cannot do anything when the soil is cooler than 55F. It cannot absorb water, it cannot function at all and so it basically sleeps to conserve its energy. However if the leaves are having a blast above the soil and getting a sunny Hawaii vacation thanks to strong indoor lighting, it will try to make food. The leaves cannot stop itself from reacting to light. When light hits the leaves and warms the leaves enough for it to function, the leaves will react to light no matter what and must start photosynthesis. But if the roots are too cold, it cannot send up the missing ingredients because it will be in hibernation. Eventually the leaves will lose moisture since it is in active mode. While the leaves are active and losing moisture, the roots are inactive and cannot send water up to hydrate the active leaves. Like running a marathon without any sustenance. The tree will sacrifice it's own leaves if it cannot provide itself the water or nutrients that is needed to continue with the process. Sorry if my post was long. I feel that it can be simple to understand if I try to compare it to thing we already understand. So to answer your question Mike, when the tree is getting plenty of sunlight that means leaf activity goes up and therefore root activity must also go up in order to keep the balance in their relationship. In order to make the root function as much as the leaves, temperatures of the soil surrounding the roots must increase. If root temperatures (and therefore root activity) cannot be increased because heating is too expensive, then the activity levels of both root and leaves must be in balance. Either the root or leaves will have to follow the other. If root activity cannot go up to parallel the leaves then inevitably is it up to the leaves to follow the roots footsteps and also be very inactive. That means reducing light levels to reduce leaf activity for the sake of matching the cold/inactive roots. I think of the leaves and roots as two parts of one living creature. It cannot live without one or their other. Both parts must follow each other because they are two halves of a whole. One is the pie crust and the other the pie filling. You cannot have a pie with a very thick crust but 2 teaspoons of filling and vice versa! It just wouldn't make any sense. You would have a very disfigured and unappetizing pie! They must both contribute the same amount to create a balanced and delicious food! I can get creative when I need to when it comes to explaining things so if this still wasn't easy to understand at all, feel free to let me know. I hope this helped anyone confused about the whole roots and leaves matter