If you de-power the range by turning off its circuit breaker, then test, the sensor should show no voltage present. Then pull all of the top heating coils and re-power the range. If the sensor indicates that there is no longer a voltage present, then it would seem that a coil has an insulation breakdown inside. You can replace all coils if they are all old, or re-install them one at a time, making runs to the breaker before and after, to find the bad one. Always check with the sensor before handling the range to avoid the consequences of mistakes in breaker use. If the voltage remains with the coils removed and the stove powered, then there is likely a breakdown somewhere within the stove and a professional repair is called for. This could lead to a call for an electrician. Older stoves used neutral for a ground path, and if the neutral to ground bond in the breaker box is not good, the stove shell voltage can float above ground. What concerns me most about this is that the shell should still have been more or less grounded and the voltage present too low to light the sensor. A coil insulation breakdown should trigger the breaker to OFF or blow away the internal short. So after the cause of leakage is fixed, a means of grounding the stove should be addressed. kas

Thanks so much for the responses! I'll put in a call to the power company. Is this something to do with the power coming into the residence, or is it something from the main panel leading out? Hope that makes sense. Trying to figure out if this is something I caused, and am responsible financially for, or if it is on the power company's end. Want to prepare myself if its to be another financial endeavor! Thanks, Tracy

Just call an electrician. The POCO is not likely to do anything until the interior wiring has at least been examined by an electrician. It could be anything from a problem in your wiring to stray current from the POCO or someone else's defective wiring. An experienced electrician should be able to isolate a likely source pretty quickly. Simply turning off your power and seeing if any voltage or current remains would a the first step, or making sure that both sides of your service are at 120 V to neutral (check at any 240 V receptacle). Keep in mind that turning off you main breaker is going to kill any heating system that requires power.

Did he check the main ground for the house? Do you have grounded outlets (3 prong)? Given the age of your house, perhaps not. I'm no expert but if plumbing inside the house is connected (bonded) to a 'ground' conductor in the wiring (either conduit or a ground wire), but at the end of the line it is not actually grounded due to a bad wire to the ground rod, or there is no ground rod, then any voltage getting into the 'ground' side of the electrical system can show up on a shower head, faucet etc. It may be something like bad electrical insulation in an appliance, or a failing capacitor in an electric or electronic device, virtually anywhere in the house. Again, though, I'm not an electrician. But yours might have to look deeper. And if he can't find any voltage on the shower head, maybe he needs to look in a different way - like running a wire somewhere else to use as a reference point to check voltage on the shower head. If the faucet and even the bathroom outlet all have the same voltage on them, a meter will show 0 volts potential. Have to find an actual real ground to measure against.