Need help on what to plant in front of my long ranch house
My house is a ranch and it's long, so it's hard to capture the whole house in one shot, so I took a few pictures to try and piece it together. I want to replace the front walk, and open it up more so that it is actually more visible from the driveway and road, as you can see it's blocked by lots of boxwood that line the whole length of the walk plus a golden mop false cypress, so advice in that area is needed. Then the bed there by the front door is a mess, currently there are some azaleas in front of the big picture window and I'm not sure if I should leave those or move some of those small boxwood there, but then what to do with the azelas. The rest of the bed has orange daylilies and a couple barberry under the other window, which I don't really care for and their placement is odd too. There is also another type of azalea near those that is slim and taller than the others, I have one like it in my backyard too, don't know what to do with it. I thought maybe of moving the larger boxwood in front of that window?? But I don't want a bed of just boxwood, although I do like that they stay green all year, but I would want more color going on in the bed for the Spring and Summer, so I'm not sure what to plant. This area is sunny, but no direct afternoon sun. Moving to the right of the front door there is a lilac bush that is obviously way to large for the space, and a weigela bush in front of it, so we will be moving those elsewhere. That area in front of that window is also on a small slope, so I'm stumped on how to treat it once I move those two bushes. I was thinking of putting some endless summer hydrangea there that I got on clearance, but was wondering if I should put some evergreen of some sort and the hydrangea in front of those so that it looks nicer in the winter. This area is dappled with shade because of the large tree. As you keep moving to the right the house steps back a few feet, in the large empty space there I was thinking of planting a pee gee hydrangea and adding some more hostas, but I'm unsure of how to treat that corner where the house steps back. Should I make this bed larger by coming out forward more? This area is light sun to dappled shade. I have two other plants that I got on clearance that I'd like to consider a spot for if possible, otherwise I'll use them elsewhere, a Sweetspire that gets apprx 4 x4 and a Crepe Myrtle that gets apprx 3 x 3. Rough measurements for everything: Area with small window at front walk is 13ft 10in wide and 11 1/2 ft deep, house steps back 4 ft and that area to the front door is about 16 ft wide, with the center portion of the window being 8 ft wide and the bed is about 10 1/2 ft deep there. The part of the house to the right of the front door to where the house step back again is 16 ft wide and the bed starts at 10 1/2 ft deep and narrows to 5 ft deep. Then the house steps back 11 ft and that area is 14 1/2 ft wide, with the bed varying from 15 ft deep to 7 ft deep at the very end. I'm in Western PA zone 6. Thank you for any suggestions. Also I do plan on limbing up that giant Dawn Redwood tree.
Comments (12)
reneec83
7 years agoHere are two more photos that kind of show the whole house at once. They were taken before I painted the shutters, front door, and light fixtures. There are also some plants/trees that have since been removed.
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Comments (20)Just a comment on the north facing situation. It's the back of my house that faces due north. I'm in zone 6, which for me means very hot summers and winters with bitter cold, and cycles of snow - ice - thaw that can be plant killers. Throw in prairie winds out of the west and it's no fun right now. But my absolute favorite planting bed is a 9' x 20' border snugged up against the back of the house beside my back patio. I understand what you mean about the intense light in summer, but there may be a trick to it that will help you decide about what you will plant. I've watched how the shade line moves back toward the house as we move from spring up to the summer solstice (about June 21). At that point the shade line is about as close as it will get to the house itself. For me, there's a 3 ft band that is always in the shade. I don't plant that close to the house, but I do plant near that 3 ft mark. Those plants have access to growing some of their roots toward the shade. Plus the plants nearest the house are shaded through the days of the spring when the tilt of the earth thingy is moving that shade line. Anything closer to the house also gets the reprieve from the sun soonest as the shade line moves back in the other direction further and further from the house. In other words around the spring equinox (about March 21) the house shades an area extending beyond the bed and the patio. At that point everything is in complete shade and the plants are coaxed up from the ground by the warming earth and gentle ambient light. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths poke up a little later here because they are kept cooler in the shade. Right at the sweet spot (about 5 ft from the house in my situation) a gorgeously robust clematis is beginning to need a little more space. It usually blooms long and then blooms again in the fall. So far I mostly have shade plants in this entire bed in spite of the fact that I know the afternoon light is coming. Kept watered, and tended, and mulched, I have been amazed at how well these shade prefering plants do. But ... I think it helps that as the earth's tilt again shifts the light southward, the shade in this area slowly begins to give its reprieve to these plants. I once used this bed for vegies ... just to see how that would go ... and the things that really love light to do well and are harvested in Aug and later, didn't produce much once they were tucked under the growing edge of the shade. Your situation is different, so you'll have to watch the light. On a sunny day in January the north side of my house is gloomy and significantly colder. The south side is the brighter warmer side. Anyway, my point is that you can work with this exposure and expect good results. There are all kinds of ways to create shade protection. A stepping stone in just the right spot is incredibly effective for keeping the ground moist and cool near a plant. I sometimes use that technique in addition to plenty of mulch. I love my north side beds and was actually planning to add hydrangia to my little playground in back. Wellspring...See MoreNeed help adding character to my new LONG awkward home.
Comments (31)Your drawing is on the right track. Mullions in the windows, longer windows, and changes of color and material will make a huge difference. But you are also on a tight budget. Work on getting the one or two upgrades that will give you the most bang for the buck now, and leave the rest as projects that you can do after you move in. Landscaping, shutters, premium fixtures, etc. can be bought later with cash, so they are not part of the mortgage, and that's cheaper in the long run. Also you are not under quite as much pressure-- fewer decisions up front. Just tell yourself it's "good enough for now." One thing that has not been mentioned is architectural roof shingles. These are thicker, with a much heavier texture, than the basic grades. They read as quality, and you have a lot of roof there, so cheap will not look good....See MoreI need help with deciding what to plant in front of my house!
Comments (12)Are you worried about the trunk blocking the door, or the tree canopy blocking the door? If it's the latter, the goal would be to raise the canopy such that it doesn't. This is entirely within the control of the owner. While the tree is young, it must have foliage in it's canopy, and more is desirable as it is the tree's energy producing system. As the tree grows higher, lower limbs are removed and eventually, enough of the trunk is clear of them that the view below and beyond the foliage canopy is open. The process of foliage blocking the door is temporary so I see it as a non-issue. The trunk isn't so much of a door-blocker, especially if it is a single trunk, so I see that as a non-issue to, when the tree would be 15' or 20' from the door. If it was 5' or 6' away it would be another matter. I think you need a tree to balance the Japanese maple. Also, I think you should be turning the maple into a tree form instead of a huge bush form when it's that close to the house and another driveway. It's starting to become oppressive....See MoreNeed help with long and low ranch style house
Comments (4)I would paint all the wrought iron pillars black. Add some colorful plants into your landscaping. It is a very nice house and quite attractive. I would keep it much as it is too. I do have the wrought iron on my house too, and they are black. I also intend to keep them. For your double doors, I would not paint them black. I would paint them a nice bright color, maybe a turquoise, or a darker rusty red, etc. Make them bright and stand out, so your entry way is clearly seen. Make sure you have lots of lighting....See Morereneec83
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
PROYardvaark
7 years ago- PRO
Yardvaark
7 years ago reneec83
7 years ago
emmarene9
7 years agoMonster Lilac could go here
I really hope you will eliminate the bed that is forward of the path. The new path should not be hidden from view. It is part of what makes an entrance seem appealing.
reneec83
7 years agoreneec83
7 years agoreneec83
7 years agoSpent ALL DAY on this project, we had to dig a million clumps of daylily out of the bed in front of the small window, it was never ending... then we removed the large barberry and moved those three boxwood that were to the front right of the walk, I think it looks better already. I have to decide what to do with the skinny azela and the two small barberry. but it's a little progress at least.
- PRO
Yardvaark
7 years ago
Yardvaark