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Propagating a Fig Tree for the First Time

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

Hi guys, I live just north of Toronto in Zone 5. I have a hardy Chicago Fig tree but its not that hardy. I planted it last year but during last winter, it died down and grew again from the ground (I tied it up and put on layers of burlap and bags of mulch at the base). I just find all the wasted energy and resources...frustrating (I also dont like the idea of annuals and stuff). So this winter I want to take cuttings and grow it in pot/s so I can store them in the basement during winters.

Before I ask my question, some details on the situation. Currently, day time highs are in the single to double digits and lows are 3c to -1c. The tree is almost 2 m tall and the upper leaves have fallen off. The top 8" are green trunks while the lower are thick brown trunks/branches. In addition, Im leaving for vacation, for 3 weeks, on Nov. 4th. So my question is, if I leave for vacation before taking cuttings, is it possible for lets say, -15c weather to kill all the branches making propagation useless by the time I get back? Or should I cut off and keep all the brown branches and leave it in my cool basement till I come back to propagate and root? Ive read people refrigerate the roots in the fridge for months before taking them out. Since I cant check regularly, should I do this? Im thinking of cutting the stems to 2 or 3" size (each cutting will have one bump where the leaf grows from). Wash the cuttings with dish soap, moist the paper towel and throw them in a ziplock bag. I have a fridge in my basement so can throw them in the fruit section of the fridge.

Also, since our growing season are so short, my tree spent too much time growing and hardly any time fruiting. This year I only got 2 fruits to ripen and 4 that are in the process but the freezing weather is already here. Im wondering, since all the potted plants in stores have fruits, is there a way to try the bonsai way? Keep them in small pots so the plant stay small but fruits a lot?

If all is lost, my last hope is to buy branches of varieties from ebay that ripen during mid to late summer, at least I will get something.

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Comments (3)

A J
7 years ago
30F should have killed the green top growth. You want the brown branches with somewhat green/yellow terminal buds to root. Fully dormant works just as well.

I use the wet paper towel method as I find it the easiest and takes up the least amount of room during winter.

Max figs = max branching. You don't want a single stem growing 10' up. If you maximize the branching you get more of a bush / open vase growth. While this works great in-ground, it may be a PITA for pots i.e. you get a face full of branches while moving them and winter storage is difficult because of how wide they are.
0nametaken0 thanked A J
0nametaken0
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks, but Id still like to know. Should I leave the tree outside in freezing nights for the next month or cut them off and leave them inside/fridge. I dont know at what temperature will the branches completely die.
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If it has been outside all this time, I would probably allow the leaves to fall off naturally, allowing it to go dormant. Then I'd place it in an unheated garage where it will remain dormant until next spring, watering only once a month or so, just to keep it from completely drying out.
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there is a forum for "plant exchange" & trading seed/materials try there I would also keep my eyes open as you go around town & look for a fig tree & ask the owner for cuttings many will help with cuttings & advise
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Jae, "Encourage root development," preposterous!!! Root growth follows leaf growth, not precedes it. Remove all its leaves and a tree will essentially stop root production, even balance its root load by aborting (dying back), those roots that are no longer needed since there are no leaves to support. Leaves feed a tree. They are a tree's mouth, and stomach, and bowels. They "eat" (so to say), the nutrients, and the water their roots provide to nourish the tree. Eliminate the leaves and the roots have nothing to do but stop functioning, go dormant and/or die off until new leaves emerge, and start the "green factory" going again. Figs are tough, extremely adaptable, and respond like crazy to good care. There's hardly a more lush looking fruiting tree than a well cared for fig tree. Let your denuded fig just recover now. It should be pushing out new growth by now. If we have a warm fall, the growth should get a foot or so long by Thanksgiving/season's end. Give it good care. In spring, just as it begins to leaf out, start shaping it to the form, single or multiple trunked as you choose. It should sprout new growth down low that you can encourage if you want a multi-trunk fig tree. There is a fig nursery out your way in NJ, French Fig Farm, frenchfigfarm@gmail.com. Give them a call or visit. Their web site is extremely informational for cold climate fig growers like us. Keep your fig between 40 and 25 degrees F. all winter long. No light is needed. Water when needed just to keep soil moist. Do not let the fig sit in water in a catch tray. Its roots will rot. My largest fig pot is 10 gallons. I use black nursery pots, Gro Pro pots, made in USA, and BPA free, are best. Through periodic root and branch pruning a fig tree (I keep my fig trees at 4-5' X 3-4'), can grow excellently, and produce tons of figs. You don't need a larger pot to have success. Of course, a larger pot is perfectly OK, cumbersome, but fine, too. The larger the pot, the harder it is to shuffle it around. Your back will not thank you. I wish you great success. Moses
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A J
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
If you want to risk it, leave it out. If you do take cuttings, I would begin to root them shortly after. Light frosts will kill all the green growth; hard frosts take young branches down and maybe completely to the roots.

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