Thanks everyone! Jean001a - Would wet feet/soil contribute to it? Seysonn - Will do! I have 8 more cubic feet of the 'chunky' stuff, which is just marked as Local compost--its unfinished compost with a lot of wood pieces still. I've been mixing coffee grounds in with them. Would you suggest I actually put these bags into my compost pile? Which is about 10 cubic yards of fresh and dried grass clippings. I have about 2 more cubic yards of used Coffee grounds as well. -- Here are my thoughts and updates! GOOD NEWS! **Here's what I've done since I first posted this.** I turned off my drip-system. We had two days of rain just prior to me posting this. It was very wet. I added a bag of soil to one of the beds--haven't all of them but will be doing today or tomorrow. Fertilized twice with my 'starter' solution for seedlings/transplants. Its heavy on Nitrogen. **What I plan to do** Water less frequently and split my drip-system up. Currently it's all one set for my 8 beds and my patio with container plants that need watering more often. Watering every 5 days or so, 20 minutes with two emitters that do 20 gallons per hour, so with two, that's 40, only at 20 minutes so that's 15 gallons per bed over 20 minutes or so? Since it's not directly to the soil. Find a way to increase drainage--I didn't use rocks or anything on the bottom of the beds, I only tilled them with a hand tiller. Could I aerate them to increase drainage--stab them a bunch of times 12-24'' down? Maybe install a few PVC pipes thru the lower portion with a screen on one side so run off can easily escape? The beds are at an angel/slope, 6'' one side, 10'' the other. My natural soil is very clayish, sticky when wet. The lower corner of the beds have either brick or hard lumps of soil filling them (I know, I'm so pro). Could I maybe use some kinda mesh instead to hold the soil in and thus allow air/water to flow out easier? Filling the soil level up in all the tomato beds beyond the brim with a pre-veggie garden soil mix. **Observations and Photo update** I've observed all my plants are doing much better since I've stopped watering them. It appears to have been my #1 problem. I still see mushrooms in most beds in the morning, leading me to believe the soil is still rather moist even now. All the plants are doing -much better-. I had yellowing cucumbers that are vibrant and dark green now, growing quickly. My melon plants are growing similarly as well. I'm going to get the net trellis installed today. My pepper plants appear to be turning a darker green adn getting more foliage---three of them have fist sized fruit on them. I've picked off flowers/fruit off all but the largest and I know they all are still pretty small. Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes -- They are ALL doing much better! Many of them are growing new leaves WITHOUT LEAF ROLL! Some have slight leaf roll, but not the deranged totally gnarled looking ones. However, two of them are not AND have white spots/yellowing leaves/insanely twisted leaves still -- while a plant of the same species right next to it shows NONE of the same signs of sickness. SuperSweet100's Thank everyone for all the help. I really do appreciate it. I've learned so much from all of you over the last year. :) I'm just wanting to ensure I'm taking all the necessary steps to have a good yield this year and learn how to make next year way better! :) Here is a link that might be useful: Syntria's Gardening Videos

If you get 8 hours, that is pretty good. 5 to 6 hours is on the lower limit. I get about 5 hours direct sun plus lots of indirect and defused light. Not perfect but I am doing ok. In addition to light heat is also a factor. If your highs are 80F to 90F that can help a lot. With peppers, higher temperatures is a plus.

Looks like an ok plant to me. Different varieties have different characteristics and tendencies to curl. Tomato leaves are very cool. I haven't read this elsewhere but I think the tomato plant uses them as tendrils by just observing my own masses of leaves. Back to yours. There are many reasons a tomato plant can curl that have to do with environment, toxins and simply poor general fertilization rather than a single obvious deficiency. IMO, this picture does not contain enough enough info to really rule in or rule out many of them. I would be sure to not over water the plant and smother the oxygen loving roots, though, so that is my suggestion, though just general. Is that a 240 mL cup? It might be very small and each time you water it , iof there is no drainage as the plant reaches transplant size, is a big change of soil water, especially if it collects on the bottom. This can interfere with nutrient take up as well.. Good luck.

Bush Champion plants normally get to 4-5 feet tall and 3 feet in diameter and for best production require at least a 7 gallon container (10 is better). In such a small container you will have BER (blossom end rot) problems on the fruit. Watering is not done on a schedule. Container plants require consistent soil moisture levels. So every other day could still be over-watering and in the high heat of summer will be under-watering. You have to break the habit to water on a fixed schedule and that is much easier to do in a larger container. Dave