My jade has these black spots too. It is a baby jade my friend gave me (first one for me!)about an inch tall with 4 leaves and 2 tiny leaves at the top. After I transplanted it I didn't want to water it for a long time because I read the roots need to heal first, right? So, I kept it inside because it's been raining every day here in Florida. Then after about a week and a half inside, I put it outside. It got one heavy rain, but I have it in well-draining cactus soil, so assumed that was okay. It gets FULL FULL sun all day outside. After about another week outside I noticed all of my succulents that I had recently transplanted and moved inside and outside with this plant looked sunburned. It is weird to think this could happen to a desert plant, but they did. My aloe had red tan lines where the upper leaves blocked the lower leaves. A baby aloe I just moved to its own pot turned brown and squishy. Luckily, I moved it back inside and watered and it came back to a healthy green. Anyway, this after this sunburning, my jade leaves got a litte bumpy. They're still hard but they aren't waxy looking like I've seen on big jades. Then they developed these brown spots. Could this be from the sun. The spots look like they are part of the leaf and not a fungus. Sorry about such a long question, any ideas?

Kaz, do you know how to convert cm's to inches? Also, you mentioned liters. Isn't liters for volumn? I'm totally confused what volumn has to do with size of pot. lol I think 15 cm's equal about 6", right? If that number is correct, what is 19 cm's in inches? lol..sorry. Aesir mentioned 5-10". 5-10" is quite an increase, but considering your tree is a foot/12", if there's not too much space between rootball and inside of pot, and if you're using well-draining soil, it should do fine. Shake Calamondin to release loose foliage. Might as well toss detached leaves. If several fall, so be it. But if by chance more leaves drop, you'll know they haven't been spliinted by neighboring leaves. It's better knowing than wondering. Keep watch, but don't pamper..remember, too much TLC works against a plants health..like overwatering. Ever read threads from people who buy a plant, the plant either loses leaves or looks sad, so they add a ton of water or worse, fertilizer! plant dies, the end. Toni

oops, got the picture uploaded in the first message.

The browned leaf edges do look like overwatering. Were they there when you bought it? If so, all you have to do is to continue to monitor soil moisture like you did today, and hold off on watering until the dowel is dry. Do be sure to water slowly and thoroughly when you do water. For the rootbound plants I still have in their old soil, I water once until water begins to drain from the pot, making sure to go slowly and wet the whole surface of the soil evenly. Then I come back with my fertilizer solution and water again about 15 minutes later. If the pot was very dry I usually find that the pot takes longer to drain the second time, probably because peat that had become hydrophobic was allowed to slowly moisten a little so it could absorb water again. My pots have holds around the perimeter of the bottom, so tilting after watering works great even without a wick. When I found these forums last September I was ready to repot all my plants, which were weak and rootbound in very old soil. Fortunately I was persuaded to proceed more cautiously and to improve their growing conditions instead, the idea being that it's better to wait until the solstice to repot unless a plant is, as Al says, circling the drain (and I did repot the one schefflera that was doing just that in 5:1:1, with good results). I flushed them thoroughly with room temperature R/O water; bought some 100 watt, 5000k (bright white) LEDs and CFLs, put them in cheap clamp-on fixtures, and mounted them on a shelf above the plants on a timer so they'd get some light; for rid of a spider mite infestation; started fertilizing with a weak solution of Foliage Pro every time I watered; and diligently monitored soil moisture and watered properly when needed. All of my plants responded by perking up, and after a few months they'd gained enough energy and their root systems had recovered enough that they started putting out new growth. I don't have FLFs, but my ficus benjaminas did the best (I listed a few before and after photos in Dave's recent "Then and Now" thread), and they were much improved by the time the weather allowed me to put them outside. Here's where things went sideways, because some nagging health issues prevented me from actually reporting this season. I was really upset when I realized it just was not going to happen, but frankly none of my plants are in better shape than they've ever been, and I've really fallen back in love with the ficuses, which love their half-day of bright high altitudes sunlight so much that they've filled every branch with shiny healthy leaves. I'm sure they'd be even happier with pruned roots in gritty mix (I'll use a modified ratio to compensate for the desert conditions), but I've gotten good enough at compensating for it that they'll keep looking good for another winter, and now that I already have my ingredients and a lot of prepared mix I'll be able to jump into it next June whenever I have a little energy to spare. Al says that if you have two plants in the same condition, repot one in the fall, and repot the other one on Father's Day 2018, the second one will have more growth next fall than the one you repotted now. Some folks will say just go ahead and repot anytime, but your plant looks great despite having a couple of slightly damaged leaves, and they'll respond much better to repotting if you care for them properly and allow them to accumulate the energy they'll need to get through it smoothly. BTW, Cassandra's description of repotting is spot on if you're not going to prune roots. If I had your plant I'd wait until the plant's energy production was at its highest to make sure it will bounce back with some vigor, but Cassandra's method sounds like it would work great. Lenore