Thank you botann and rhodyman for your observations. I can only guess that my fertilizing with small quantities of 15-30-15 and that is basically just trying to pour some over the leaves that the rhodos actually are only getting something like 5-10-5 in benefit. Because like Ken Cox says, douglas firs are rather greedy. I`m actually wondering if the only fertilizer they are really getting is that which is absorbed thru the leaves? You should know that we are talking about fir trees that are close to a hundred years old (not little saplings)lol. And I did manage to move 9 rhodos to my lawn set about 8ft apart, and in spite of the competition from the grass, and (only one application of fertilizer in May) yep, they have nice plump buds, all of them. However, even with a acre+ I`m not wanting to clear away any more salal and oregon grape etc. and give myself yet another area to water. So will continue the extra food and water in the forest and see if the good results continue in years to come. One thing is clear, it seems that when I`m feeding my rhodos in the forest, I`m also feeding those other majestic giants.lol Thanks guys

I think we all can agree that beating a dead horse is useless, but this one still has a little life in it! Bboy, I do know there are people that analyze their food intake for such parameters as calories, etc. yet in my 54 years of experience in eating, I have consistently been able to gauge proper amounts to eat using the "eyeball method". This really works! Now about these soil tests many are saying are necessary, the one key thing they will not tell you is the N status in the soil. And in nearly every case, whether in the managed landscape, or in a woods, the addition of N will yield a positive response. So, from that perspective, can we say the N was "needed"? Maybe, maybe not. Again, it depends on the goals for the given plant(s). And now, a little about tree roots. The fine absorptive roots are not permanent. They are used up, primarily during the summer, and new ones are regenerated, with the Fall season being one of the key times when this can happen. As such, Fall can indeed be a good time to add some N to the system to aid in this regeneration. The basic rule is that soil temps must be at or above around 50 degrees F for this growth to be taking place. Adequate soil moisture need be present as well. Thetman, your experience of applying hollytone to that one tree is interesting: This would seem to indicate there was either a nutrient deficiency in the soil, or a pH problem making one or more nutrients unavailable to the plant. However, as far as I know, the genus Thuja is not one having very narrow soil pH parameters, and in fact, our own T. occidentalis in my rgion has a strong affinity for higher pH soils, or at least, those soils having a good supply of calcium/magnesium, which goes a long way towards explaining why, of all parts of the state I live in, they are most numerous and vigorous here in the east, where we are underlain by dolomite, a form of limestone high in both of those minerals. And this makes me wonder if the GGs are that different that an acid-type fertilizer....Hollytone....would elicit such a strong response. But soil buffering capacity could account for this otherwise "wrong" fert. type still working! As you can see, there's quite a bit to this, and I could really bring in a lot more, but won't for now. That's one of the reasons why I say, if you want to fertilize, go ahead, but keep it on the mellow side. +oM

Your type of soil will likely have an impact on the result of applying fertilizer. No one size fits all. I have very porous soil, and I apply fertilizer and bone meal on the surface before the major growth starts, in Jan. and Feb. By the time the growth is well under way, the rains have soaked the components down to the root level. With clay soil, this will not work as well. One can also supplement with a water soluble fertilizer as a repeat application up until a couple of weeks before bloom. Fertilizer close to the bloom season can cause irregular growth in the stalks and what is called ÂsnakingÂ. But it doesnÂt hurt them. IÂm not too picky on the brand of fertilizer, I just stay away from high nitrogen for irises.

spiders are spiders.. mites are mites ... spider mites.. are NOT spiders.. they are mites ... one thing sucks the juice out of plants [mites].. the other preys on bugs [spiders] ... spiders do NOT harm plants .... see why one is bad.. and one is good ..???? i do NOT know.. but would be surprised if spiders dont eat mites ... and that is the lesson for today.. fully ID your problem.. so you can leave the good things .. and only attack the bad things ... but NEVER .. over-react ... had you waited a day or two.. to research them .. it would not have made a difference. ... if you do have scale... HORTICULTURAL oil is a recommended cure ... but that is not cooking oil ... so you might have been on the right track.. but used the wrong thing .. again, research ... [hort oil is VERY FINE ... while other oils are very heavy.. heavy ones MIGHT smother the plant .. but dont worry about that] the oil will smother the scale.. unfortunately.. they look the same.. dead or alive.. so we dont know ... what you did to them ... if anything ... my first thought.. is for you to compare ... the newest leaves coming out.. are they on those.. and then.. figure out the oldest leaves ... and i bet they are worse on those ... and if so .. i would simply tug off some of the older leaves .. no plant holds its leaves forever.. and early spring is a great time to remove some of the older.. weaker leaves .... they are probably the ones that are brittle.. and curling toward the trunk .... snip them.. if they dont release easily ... over the years.. you will learn how to recognize them.. and if you dont do it.. it will self prune them off soon enough ... my though is simply.. since they are covered in scale...??? .. to reduce your population.. by simply removing the old leaves ... if you can get rid of 50 to 75% of the problem.. thru some pruning.. why not??? am i to understand.. you made your own potting medium???? ken