Predator Nematodes?
Cori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (41)
Cori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Japanese Beetles
Comments (68)Fascinating, all this discussion. I hope participants aren't too tired to continue, because I have questions. First question: what are the names of the beetles that are devouring my garden (in Italy). There are two kinds: a large (2cm) green-gold beetle, very handsome, and a smaller (1/2") kind, black dusted with white, that eats the stamens of the roses. Okay, we have the same kinds of problems everyone on this thread has been describing. Beetle infestations that go on and on. I don't spray or do any kinds of biological controls, hoping to see predators arrive that will deal with the beetles, but, so far at least, in the five years since we started our garden, it's not happening. We're in farm country, surrounded by fields, woods, scrub, so any possible difficulties caused by a suburban environment don't come into question. We have an abundant insect population: bees, flies, wasps, butterflies, praying mantises, and, of course, beetles good and evil. We also have lizards, though the numerous farm cats like to dine on them, and starlings and other birds. Still, the beetles keep coming, and I see that no one on this thread has a pesticide-free solution for them. However, I do want to cite a letter to Mother Earth News, printed in the June/July 2006 issue. The writer, Milt Fusselman, described how he had dealt with Japanese beetles when he lived in an area that suffered infestations. The pheromone trap he bought filled up immediately. So he took the pheromone trap, cut a hole in one bottom corner, ran a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe down from the bag, attaching it with duct tape, and hung the whole shebang in his hen house, with a plate underneath the pipe. He wrote that the JBs emerged from the pipe onto the plate and made a meal for the enthusiastic chickens. Mr. Fusselman said that it worked very well. So, I pass it along, and hope that I haven't violated any copyright laws and that author and magazine will approve of my reporting his solution. I'm interested in the bantams for pest (specifically, beetle) control: anybody have any more to offer on the subject? The main question on my mind is: why the ecological imbalance? Why do no predators appear to feed off this abundant food supply? I grow a mixed garden--no monocultures--in an environment free, as far as I can tell, of pesticides, and with woods and brushy areas close by that can shelter birds, and yet the beetles multiply with impunity. Why? Melissa...See MorePredator nematodes
Comments (5)I bought nematodes from nematodary.com because they were the best prices from everyone I researched. I got every type because I wasn't sure which ones worked best for thrips. They arrived in a cooler and need to stay cold. I put them int he fridge and applied half of them so far. (The say to break it up into two release times). It has only been a little over a week but I heard it takes a few weeks to start noticing results. A few questions: How long has it taken for anyone else to see results? Can you use pyrithrin, insecticidal, or neem sprays (or other organic spray solutions) in the meantime to fight the thrip population? Most of the bugs seem to bve living in the top few inches of the soil and kill of the bottoms of the plants. I am not positive they are thrips because I am new to this but am pretty sure that's what they most sound like. Any advice would be really helpful from anyone else with the same experiences. Thanks! Sara...See MoreHelp - Growing large trees from seed (and keeping them healthy).
Comments (17)Question 1 - I was really blown away by how deep and big the taproot is growing on these trees. It's like most of the energy is going to create this big root. It's thicker than the trunks in every case, and the roots are easily twice to sometimes 3x as long as the seedling itself. So on on of them, I cut back the taproot a little bit... I took about a half an inch. I had read Al mentioning that slowly cutting back a taproot over time can help spur the tree to grow more roots higher up. I hope I didn't take it out of context. The first day the lowest leaf of that seedling, which has started to go brown on the rim, became pale and collapsed on one side of the leaf. Then yesterday it went dry. Today there has been no further progress of the leaf's collapse and no further signs of stress. The seedling seems strong... Was I wrong to try and trim it back just a little bit? Or did I do alright? Is this seedling out of the woods for now do you think? Young plants are nearly all dynamic mass, and as such, have a very strong "will to live". If your plant is currently doing well, there is no reason it will take a turn unless something cultural forces a change in course. Bonsai practitioners have learned that lifting seedlings as soon as the first set of true leaves emerge and removing the seed radicle immediately below the root to shoot transition zone and treating the top as a cutting eliminated taproot issues entirely in most plants. In stubborn plants with a hard tendency toward vertical roots, you'll need to regularly remove all first order roots (attached to main stem) growing downward from the root to shoot transition zone as well as all second order roots growing up or down off the first order roots. Question 2 - related to question 1, regarding the other seedling I root pruned a little. This one I took a little more off of because of root rot. I know I had to take it off, and I also took off a bit of taproot for this one too. The seedling itself seems fine. The uppermost leaf - which is fairly new and thin yet - went limp the first day, but has become stronger and greener these last two days. I know I had to take off the bad roots, but I was worried I went too far. I'm hoping I'm seeing indications that I didn't? Only way to tell is by putting a waiting period behind you during which the plant retains its turgidity throughout the daylight hours. Stomata close at night and slow water loss, so unhealthy plants have opportunity to recover from low internal water pressure and wilting. No wilt during the day is a good indication to bet on full recovery. Question 3 - When I was done, I investigated the 5 'dead' seedlings. Two of them looked like some of Al's bare-root pictures. The main part of the taproot was healthy, seemed alive, and had small alive roots still growing from it. but the end of the root was truncated in mush, much of which fell off into the soil. I washed them as clean as I could in a mist spray and cut off the mushy end to clean root. Then I potted those in 5:1:1 too. I'm hoping against hope that I might be able to save them. The top id dead back to the twiggy stump... Any thoughts if they might come back? Anything special I might do for them to give them the best shot - for instance a special fertilizer or watering strategy? Withhold fertilizer until the plant recovers. DAMP or MOIST are the operative words. If the fungal infection has gummed up the plumbing such that a vascular connection between roots and shoots isn't in the offing, it's a goner. If the infection isn't systemic, the possibility of retaining viability is still on the table. What kills cuttings is the inability to make that plumbing connection due to rot, or the cutting having an inadequate energy reserve. If the plant/cutting/seedling runs out of reserve energy while it still a net user of energy instead of a net producer of energy, it's over. 4: I have 5 I have not yet repotted. They seem to be okay... though 3 aren't doing much of anything, they're just existing and may have some first sign of browning on lowest leaves, but I might be looking too hard too... One is finishing it's fall flush of leaves, and one is start starting it's fall flush... I'm not sure if I should repot them so close to winter or if I should let them be until spring, since they seem okay right now. I especially am not sure I should mess with the one putting out new leaves. But on the other hand, what if I really am seeing some warning signs and some suddenly start taking a down turn in the next week or month? Wouldn't it be better to do it early, now, rather than later? The only reason I re-potted the ones I did was because I was sure they wouldn't make it through winter... I am not sure on these ones. If they were your plants, what would you do? A dearth of mobile nutrients, over-watering, root congestion, soil compaction, can all lead to loss of lower leaves. I'll ask you to spare me from having to do the research by telling me if these plants would normally enter a predictive dormancy during the fall to winter transition? If yes, then waiot until spring but guard against over-watering. If no, repot only if you suspect strongly that the plants will no longer be viable come late spring (June). 5: Fungus gnats. =( I manage to get rid of them for a while, but they always come back. Of course, I was always using compost mixes, particularly organic ones, and they're usually lousy with them no matter how much a brand claims they pasteurize/sterilize for pests. Do non-mineral soil media mixes have the same ability to attract and support these and other soil-borne pests? If yes, which ones to watch for? If you don't already have a good understanding of what constitutes the comparative degrees of container media (as in unusable, practically unusable, just plain poor, ok, better, and the variations of better from 'sort of better' to 'really a whole lot better'), making that a priority will almost certainly propel your advancement farther/faster than anything else you might apply yourself to in the near term. If you need the info that can tie soils up into a neat little conceptualization, I'll be really glad to help, but I think trying to do it in a thread that covers so many topics isn't the best format. Are you familiar with and understand the concept discussed here? Which brings my follow-up: If it can support pests that spent part or all of their life cycle in soil, then it should be able to support their predators too, right? I prefer to combat pests with their predators, like nematodes, predatory mites, aphid lions, etc. Would this be doable if needed? How about we work toward providing a home for roots that doesn't provide creature comforts? In the immediate, mosquito dunks and a restrained hand on the watering can are potential remedies. 6: For the future of these little babies of mine, what would a good strategy be for keeping them happy growing in a container? You'll find an outline here that will provide a plan for maintaining woody material in containers and in good health indefinitely. I know I need to keep them smaller than if they were in the landscape, and that means eventually removing the taproot. I also understand that taproot removal usually starts after a year. But these trees don't actually seem to have much besides taproot... smaller roots branch off of it, and a few have some smaller roots that come from the trunk matrix but not most from what I've seen. Would the best bet be to gradually prune the tap root back over a few years in an attempt to get the trees to put out more roots higher up? Or should I go for broke and just cut it way back and defoliate? Or is it possible that the poor media I have been growing in so far as not encouraged growth at the higher and mid root range and drove the roots downwards looking for air? I'm sorry I haven't taken any pictures to share to give you a better idea. If I end up re-potting any of the others, I will take some. I think I covered these questions above, but if not, ask again. Al...See MoreGood bug or bad bug?
Comments (35)Hi Natasha. Great questions. My hope is that it is never bad enough that I need to use Bayer again! The active ingredient in it kills all sorts of beneficial bugs (and bees) too... and I really try my best not to use pesticides. If I only saw 12 or so in a hole I would feel really good about just using predator nematodes. I'm applying predator nematodes in about 2 weeks, then again in about a month. It is warm enough here to apply them now, but I just applied horticultural oil for the first time to some roses and citrus so I want to give that some time since the oil could smother the beneficial nematodes too. Have you gotten any rain in Phoenix? I think the reason why the nematodes didn't work that well in the fall for me is because the ground was just too dry. It needs to be wet in order for them to move around and get the grubs. At least 6 inches down. FINALLY after all the rain we have had it is wet about 6 inches down here now. If you're thinking about nematodes, I would say go for it! Just make sure to apply them when there has been some rain to make it easier on yourself and your water budget (that way you don't have to soak the soil in order to water them in). Good luck!...See MoreCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy thanked summersrhythm_z6aCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agonikthegreek
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
7 years agonikthegreek
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoUser
7 years agonikthegreek
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy thanked Melissa Northern Italy zone 8Cori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agonikthegreek
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoNatasha (Chandler AZ 9b) W
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy thanked Natasha (Chandler AZ 9b) WCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agoNatasha (Chandler AZ 9b) W
7 years agoCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy thanked Natasha (Chandler AZ 9b) WCori Ann - H0uzz violated my privacy
7 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
7 years ago
Related Stories
LIFEHow to Outsmart Backyard Critters
Learn to think like a raccoon, skunk or squirrel to keep your home safe and your garden intact
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPINGBid Bad Garden Bugs Goodbye and Usher In the Good
Give ants their marching orders and send mosquitoes moseying, while creating a garden that draws pollinators and helpful eaters
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGarden Myths to Debunk as You Dig This Fall and Rest Over Winter
Termites hate wood mulch, don’t amend soil for trees, avoid gravel in planters — and more nuggets of garden wisdom
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESInvite Mining Bees to Your Garden by Planting Their Favorite Plants
Look for mining bees (Andrena) pollinating woodland wildflowers in U.S. gardens this spring
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGet on a Composting Kick (Hello, Free Fertilizer!)
Quit shelling out for pricey substitutes that aren’t even as good. Here’s how to give your soil the best while lightening your trash load
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESAttract Thynnid Wasps With Summer-Flowering Native Plants
These beneficial insects will hunt damaging beetle grubs in your lawn
Full StoryEDIBLE GARDENSHow to Grow Your Own Apricots
Velvety fruit, pretty blossoms and interesting bark make apricot trees a delight — and they’re great for smaller gardens
Full Story
henry_kuska