Corrine: I discovered a method a year or 2 ago employed somewhere in Europe that splits a bed in half longitudinally. This method is for summer (floricane) bearers on a trellis with wires on both outside edges of the bed. In year 1, all primocanes are retained and trained to the east (for instance) side of the bed. In year 2 the now floricanes on the east side are thinned, leaving room on the west side and the rest are left to bear fruit while leaving space and light for the new primocanes to come up on the west side and be trained to the west wires. When the floricanes are done they are removed. The process is repeated, alternating in the following years. I suspect some varieties are well suited to this as they put out so many canes dispersed over both sides of the bed that there are plenty of primocanes to choose from every year. My Lathams haven't been terribly cooperative in this respect yet, kinda like pushing a rope. The method is really for convenience more than maximum yield. I started trying it because the primocanes were so large and extremely deeply imbedded with the floricanes that they were losing more than the bottom half of their leaves by the time fruiting was over and the floricanes removed. It seemed horticulturally prudent to grow the best primocanes to get the best subsequent floricanes and losing all those leaves early in the season would not be good. This year's floricanes are the thickest and tallest the patch has produced in 7 years, I'm hopeful.

As Kim says. I have fished a Lady Hillingdon out from under Etoile de Lyon and a Clementina Carbonieri from under Gruss an Coburg, both of them growing from roots of roses that were "removed" prior to the new tenants being installed. I have pulled Reine des Violettes out at least three times. In the case of the salvaged Lady Hillingdon, I found it a better-suited spot and it is now a glorious plant whereas it was dreck before, so that was a fortunate second chance. ~Debbie

For your first year you're ok. A couple three thoughts: 1. Heads will store longer..much longer than single cloves. You should get 4-6 months storage life from your German Whites and Leningrad's IF stored in the 50s or a bit below with good air circulation and reasonably dry air. Hopefully you have a dry basement with a cool wall or end. If you have the space it is best to store your garlic single or double layered (for air circulation), off the floor, in a dark area. Oh yes..snip off the stalks when they are paper dry before storing. You don't want to bring any bugs inside or have momma get after you for shattered stalks on her floor. 2. Aside from freezing think about peeling/slicing the cloves and drying them. They'll be good for soups/stews and an occasional Xmas gift. 3. Make a point of checking/looking-in/moving your garlic around a bit once a month or so. While "sprouted" garlic is excellent to eat. If or when a good amount starts to sprout best consider drying or freezing. 4. Don't be too tight with your larger cloves..consider setting aside 60 or so heads for 2012. Also think about adding one or two new varieties. Just a thought..see what Karen & Mike at We Grow Garlic have up in Wisconsin: http://www.wegrowgarlic.com/catalog/.

I think we still have some time. I know slat year I had blooms up till mid Nov. I know it gets cooler faster up there than it does here on the coast but I would think you my get one before it over. I have to asked the one you have thatÂs two years old How tall is it and what size pot do you have it in. I have learned a lot talking to people over on the Islands and have point out a few things I have really took to be a problem. Getting good air flow through your plant has a lot to do with how good your blooms are. The age of the soil and the build up of chemical in it can slow the growth and heath of the plants. A Lot of people say they can grow in just about whatever soil their is. Most people use a potting soil, sand, peat and perlite. If it's a pot on the small side it doesn't take long before the soil mix starts to pack and break down. Most of us grow them in pots. We throw fertilizer on them in these pot and it doesn't take long before you have worn out soil. It was pointed out to me about this soil break down the other night when talking to someone that has the best looking plant I have seen and a while. Just seeing someone plants with a few blooms on each plant always catches an eye with the colors and we tell our self how cool these plants look. But to see plants with one or two Inflo's in full bloom not just a few that are open but only just a few that are not open and the color ball it make one look into what they have been doing and ask more question and ask for the how than someone wants to give out. I looked into the air flow my plants got this past spring and gave them all more room so they all would get more air circulation they seem to like it a lot more than they liked being jammed together. I noticed that plant that were touch leaves to leaves didnÂt do as well. I had six foot plant with three foot plants in front of them and one to tow foot plant in front of them were not doing as well as the one that were on their own or one were there was a foot or two gap between the leaves on the two size plants. So I started reworking my garden were everyone had there own space or were there was a larger space between the plant grouped together. So with the a new view on the air and the soil I hope next spring. I will be set up to see if these changes help. All my plants will have a new larger pot with fresh soil with a really good draining mix. And by putting them all in the same condition I will have something to work with are far as the water and fertilizers I use. We all look at the tops and the blooms but do we really look at whatÂs going on under the soil. Take a look you will be amazed If you hadnÂt taken a look lately. Sorry for the long post but IÂm pumped up about my plant and the Feed Back I have gotten about them lately. Don weav1@netzero.com